Boy am i glad...
01-21-2009, 06:40 PM
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,049
Boy am i glad...
I decided to just get my block bored and honed, and PROPERLY cleaned
my original idea was to just degrease it and put it together, due to lack of cash
but i broke down and took ti tot he machine shop,
40 OVER!
Good thing i took it huh?
As soon as i can put some more money together i'm buying the engine kit and believe it or not im gonna try to put my cam bearings and wrist pins in my self.... see where this is going?
Why does a machine shop heat rods to put wrist pins in, last time i check heat expanded metal making a smaller hole for a wrist pin.... shouldn't they be superchilled? to create a larger hole?
I have been told that with my press i can put my own wrist pins in without the oven...
good idea or bad? I'm working with limited money
Also cam bearings, my friend who was helping me with the engine before, has the cam bearing tool, so that should be fine, right?
my original idea was to just degrease it and put it together, due to lack of cash
but i broke down and took ti tot he machine shop,
40 OVER!
Good thing i took it huh?
As soon as i can put some more money together i'm buying the engine kit and believe it or not im gonna try to put my cam bearings and wrist pins in my self.... see where this is going?
Why does a machine shop heat rods to put wrist pins in, last time i check heat expanded metal making a smaller hole for a wrist pin.... shouldn't they be superchilled? to create a larger hole?
I have been told that with my press i can put my own wrist pins in without the oven...
good idea or bad? I'm working with limited money
Also cam bearings, my friend who was helping me with the engine before, has the cam bearing tool, so that should be fine, right?
01-21-2009, 07:25 PM
#4
America ftw
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ca
Posts: 2,261
the cam bearing tool, im assuming it had the adjustable size expander. just slide the bearing on, tighten, and then make sure it starts straight. then go in almost all the way, and remove the shaft, and use a flashlight and a tiny mirror to look down the oil ways in the main. then keep knocking it in until it lines up good.
edit. duh im a dummy. doh.
edit. duh im a dummy. doh.
Last edited by ky; 01-21-2009 at 07:46 PM.
01-21-2009, 07:42 PM
#5
Banned
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,049
heat expands metal
cold shrinks it
heat makes molecules move more rapidly and spread out
cold makes molecules slow down and come together
heat makes metal less dense, and larger
cold makes metal more dense and smaller
the reason you remove galley plugs with heat it because it opens up pores to allow oil to penetrate the metal
and they heat the rod not the pin, so.... why?
cold shrinks it
heat makes molecules move more rapidly and spread out
cold makes molecules slow down and come together
heat makes metal less dense, and larger
cold makes metal more dense and smaller
the reason you remove galley plugs with heat it because it opens up pores to allow oil to penetrate the metal
and they heat the rod not the pin, so.... why?
01-21-2009, 07:47 PM
#6
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
wellllll from a metallurgical stand point heating causing expansion. IF the metal is turned red hot it stretches and when it is cooled off there is no more load on it because it stays stretched.
DANGER DANGER.... heating metal red hot can land you in deep crap depending on the type of metal and temper.
we call red hot the Austenite phase. IF cooled rapidly from this phase the metal tends to have small grain structure. Metal is made of grains a lot like the cell wall of plants. Small grains prduce hard metal that is also very brittle and can shatter. Slow cooling (air or oil quench) allows grains to grow large producing tough soft metal that wont shatter but can be deformed easily.
What Im trying to say is. If you heat any metal up past 1000 F (dark red) you will begin to alter its grain structure. Many critial componets I would think have some specail metal properties that manufactures work hard to maintain and heating them up will undo all that hard work. Be careful before heating anything critical.
-Gun
DANGER DANGER.... heating metal red hot can land you in deep crap depending on the type of metal and temper.
we call red hot the Austenite phase. IF cooled rapidly from this phase the metal tends to have small grain structure. Metal is made of grains a lot like the cell wall of plants. Small grains prduce hard metal that is also very brittle and can shatter. Slow cooling (air or oil quench) allows grains to grow large producing tough soft metal that wont shatter but can be deformed easily.
What Im trying to say is. If you heat any metal up past 1000 F (dark red) you will begin to alter its grain structure. Many critial componets I would think have some specail metal properties that manufactures work hard to maintain and heating them up will undo all that hard work. Be careful before heating anything critical.
-Gun
01-21-2009, 07:49 PM
#7
America ftw
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: ca
Posts: 2,261
wellllll from a metallurgical stand point heating causing expansion. IF the metal is turned red hot it stretches and when it is cooled off there is no more load on it because it stays stretched.
DANGER DANGER.... heating metal red hot can land you in deep crap depending on the type of metal and temper.
we call red hot the Austenite phase. IF cooled rapidly from this phase the metal tends to have small grain structure. Metal is made of grains a lot like the cell wall of plants. Small grains prduce hard metal that is also very brittle and can shatter. Slow cooling (air or oil quench) allows grains to grow large producing tough soft metal that wont shatter but can be deformed easily.
What Im trying to say is. If you heat any metal up past 1000 F (dark red) you will begin to alter its grain structure. Many critial componets I would think have some specail metal properties that manufactures work hard to maintain and heating them up will undo all that hard work. Be careful before heating anything critical.
-Gun
DANGER DANGER.... heating metal red hot can land you in deep crap depending on the type of metal and temper.
we call red hot the Austenite phase. IF cooled rapidly from this phase the metal tends to have small grain structure. Metal is made of grains a lot like the cell wall of plants. Small grains prduce hard metal that is also very brittle and can shatter. Slow cooling (air or oil quench) allows grains to grow large producing tough soft metal that wont shatter but can be deformed easily.
What Im trying to say is. If you heat any metal up past 1000 F (dark red) you will begin to alter its grain structure. Many critial componets I would think have some specail metal properties that manufactures work hard to maintain and heating them up will undo all that hard work. Be careful before heating anything critical.
-Gun
01-21-2009, 08:50 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,990
my engine is now .04 over, its not a big deal at all. My machine shop (which is a great one btw) says they go .06 over all the time on race engines. If you're concerned about overheating get a high-flow aluminum water pump, bigger radiator, nice fan, and all that good tuff.
