Lower hose collapse. Does the radiator...
#1
Lower hose collapse. Does the radiator...
being restricted cause this? I have had some temp problems that have gotten worse, so I flushed the system, no improvement. Replaced thermostat, which was a 160 that only fully opened at 185-190 and burped the system again. No real improvement again.
I checked the engine with the cap off the radiator and watched the lower hose as I revved the engine a bit. I would dramatically collapse on itself. I bought a Flex hose with the spring, took the radiator out and flushed it with a garden hose every which way, figuring it was gunked up.
I replaced the lower hose, only to find that I should have trimmed about an inch off each end and saw the hose kink... so off it came again. I trimmed it and it fit nicely with a nice arc from the pump to the outlet of the Rad. Started it up and it was better, but the hose still kinked a bit at the bend. I drove it and the needle stayed right in the middle, maybe a bit lower, but it was a short drive and now I don't trust it. I had a radiator cap temp gauge on it a few days ago, but I didn't like the way it worked with my overflow tank. So I do know that right around the middle of the gauge is about 190 at the radiator. Not bad, but if the hose collapses I know it will climb, so I want to fix what's causing it.
Can I with any certainty narrow it down to the radiator? Could I remove it again and let it sit with either a Flush in it or maybe CLR? Since it's on the brink of being reliable? Maybe I should just buy a new repalcement and save the headache, not to mention the Anti-Freeze!!!
I checked the engine with the cap off the radiator and watched the lower hose as I revved the engine a bit. I would dramatically collapse on itself. I bought a Flex hose with the spring, took the radiator out and flushed it with a garden hose every which way, figuring it was gunked up.
I replaced the lower hose, only to find that I should have trimmed about an inch off each end and saw the hose kink... so off it came again. I trimmed it and it fit nicely with a nice arc from the pump to the outlet of the Rad. Started it up and it was better, but the hose still kinked a bit at the bend. I drove it and the needle stayed right in the middle, maybe a bit lower, but it was a short drive and now I don't trust it. I had a radiator cap temp gauge on it a few days ago, but I didn't like the way it worked with my overflow tank. So I do know that right around the middle of the gauge is about 190 at the radiator. Not bad, but if the hose collapses I know it will climb, so I want to fix what's causing it.
Can I with any certainty narrow it down to the radiator? Could I remove it again and let it sit with either a Flush in it or maybe CLR? Since it's on the brink of being reliable? Maybe I should just buy a new repalcement and save the headache, not to mention the Anti-Freeze!!!
#2
I would put some water wetter in it it helps some.You gotta remember this is a older car they ran hotter then cars do now.Check the shroud around the fan is it tight to the radiator.Your next steps are new radiator and i would put electric fans on it they cool better.
#3
It has a Derale electric fan on it. I know these engines run hotter, but the unpredictable spikes I could do without. Having the lower hose collapse during acceleration can't be normal so I would like to cure that. I am pointing the finger at the radiator and hoping that someone would confirm that before I spend more money chasing my tail. LOL
#4
That is the suction side of the radiator and as the engine revs it can create quite a bit of suction. The hose needs a spring to keep it from collapsing and if yours is installed properly should work fine unless there is a restriction in the radiator or beyond. Do you have the bypass hose installed on the water neck? If so, it does sound like the radiator is blocked.
#5
I was seeing the collapse while the cap was off the radiator leading me to believe that the radiator is the culprit. I am going to try filling the radiator (off the car) with Muriatic acid. At this point I have nothing to lose and I should be good just as long as I don't let it sit there too long. I have read where dry dishwashing detergent is also a good way to flush the "whole" cooling system. At this point I may have to buy a new radiator, so why not give the acid a try.
#7
I suppose that in theory, a blocked radiator could cause the bottom hose to colapse...
I had never really thought about it before.
I would think that the cap is probably not working right also.
If the system were pressurizing correctly once hot, the pressure would keep the hose from colapsing on itself. (and if air was not geting back in the hose would colapse as the coolant cooled off. )
I had never really thought about it before.
I would think that the cap is probably not working right also.
If the system were pressurizing correctly once hot, the pressure would keep the hose from colapsing on itself. (and if air was not geting back in the hose would colapse as the coolant cooled off. )
#9
I suppose that in theory, a blocked radiator could cause the bottom hose to colapse...
I had never really thought about it before.
I would think that the cap is probably not working right also.
If the system were pressurizing correctly once hot, the pressure would keep the hose from colapsing on itself. (and if air was not geting back in the hose would colapse as the coolant cooled off. )
I had never really thought about it before.
I would think that the cap is probably not working right also.
If the system were pressurizing correctly once hot, the pressure would keep the hose from colapsing on itself. (and if air was not geting back in the hose would colapse as the coolant cooled off. )
I know the cooling system work under pressure, but having a restriction placed in it's path can't let it operate normally.
The original hose was like a taco when it pulled upon itself. I thought "bingo" There's the problem.
The cap works fine no leaks and pulls from the overflow tank and spits it back when needed.