Hey guys, checking in with ya
#1
Hey guys, checking in with ya
Sorry I have been so busy. I havent really been on here much lately.
Well everytime to start the 65, I have to pour gas in the carb. Then it well run fine.
Is this a problem with the choke?
Well everytime to start the 65, I have to pour gas in the carb. Then it well run fine.
Is this a problem with the choke?
#2
Have you tried pumping the gas pedal to get gas into the carb?
In my 73 f-100 I had to pump the gas pedal like 30 times to get enough gas into it to start it. I fixed this by finding there was a vacuum leak in my crusty old accelerator pump on the carburetor. Replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm (piece of cake and less than $10). Now it starts up right away and I may have to pump the pedal once if it has sat for a while.
Another symptom of a bad accelerator pump diaphragm is gas leaking around it.
In my 73 f-100 I had to pump the gas pedal like 30 times to get enough gas into it to start it. I fixed this by finding there was a vacuum leak in my crusty old accelerator pump on the carburetor. Replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm (piece of cake and less than $10). Now it starts up right away and I may have to pump the pedal once if it has sat for a while.
Another symptom of a bad accelerator pump diaphragm is gas leaking around it.
#4
The carb is probably leaking down while it sits, it could also be the accelerator pump not working. If its every feaking time, like even when going to the store, shut it off and still have to dump fuel, well accel pump is a good place to start. If its overnight or after a week, then the carb is leaking fuel down the intake.
Lastly the fuel pump could also be losing its prime, meaning there is an air leak somewhere in the pump itself, or the line from the tank.
An electric pump can help with symptoms, you can fill the carb easy by running the pump before cranking. Still if there is an air leak in the line, putting pressure into the fuel line will show you where it is, real quick like with a big mess. If the accel pump isnt working or the carb is leaking down, rebuilding the carb is the right way, but an electric pump would fill the carb after it leaks.
Check the choke by removing the air filter assembly after the engine is warm or has been running for about ten minutes. It should be open. Before you start the car, pump the gas once to set the choke (provided it is electric or heated and not manual with a cable) and verify it is actually closed, if it is open then the choke isnt working. Keep in mind if its a hot day, say over 80F you shouldnt need a choke to start the car, unless its a cold blooded Dodge 318.
Lastly the fuel pump could also be losing its prime, meaning there is an air leak somewhere in the pump itself, or the line from the tank.
An electric pump can help with symptoms, you can fill the carb easy by running the pump before cranking. Still if there is an air leak in the line, putting pressure into the fuel line will show you where it is, real quick like with a big mess. If the accel pump isnt working or the carb is leaking down, rebuilding the carb is the right way, but an electric pump would fill the carb after it leaks.
Check the choke by removing the air filter assembly after the engine is warm or has been running for about ten minutes. It should be open. Before you start the car, pump the gas once to set the choke (provided it is electric or heated and not manual with a cable) and verify it is actually closed, if it is open then the choke isnt working. Keep in mind if its a hot day, say over 80F you shouldnt need a choke to start the car, unless its a cold blooded Dodge 318.
#5
Sounds like a leak somewhere,All the gas is running back out of the fuel system while sitting.
Mine does the same thing,But then again mine sits for several months at a time without running.
Once it starts and runs for a while,It will start again later just fine.
Mine does the same thing,But then again mine sits for several months at a time without running.
Once it starts and runs for a while,It will start again later just fine.
#6
The petal gets pumped at least 20 times and will still not start unless gas is poured into the carb.
Its the stock motor. I think the only thing changed a while back was an electronic start was added.
I know what the carb is and stuff but can anyone please give me a visual on the other things I need to look at? Like how to check if the choke is closed?
Its the stock motor. I think the only thing changed a while back was an electronic start was added.
I know what the carb is and stuff but can anyone please give me a visual on the other things I need to look at? Like how to check if the choke is closed?
#7
The choke is the flap on top. When the choke is engaged the flap should close off the top of the carb so less air gets in. When disengaged it should be opened up. If it is really hot where your at, then the choke may be making the car hard to start. You may not actually need it in hot weather even if the car hasn't been driven in a while.
Whats an electronic start? Do you mean electric choke?
Whats an electronic start? Do you mean electric choke?
Last edited by tx65coupe; 07-29-2009 at 08:14 AM.
#8
My son's Falcon with an I-6 was hard to start that way, turns out both his choke AND accelerator pump were inoperative....
We could close the choke by hand (Removing the air cleaner and actually closing the butterfly by hand) and it would fire...
No accelerator pump + choke valve loose on the shaft = 1 tough car to get started every morning....
Either one or the other working would probably get you by in FLA...
We could close the choke by hand (Removing the air cleaner and actually closing the butterfly by hand) and it would fire...
No accelerator pump + choke valve loose on the shaft = 1 tough car to get started every morning....
Either one or the other working would probably get you by in FLA...
#9
My son's Falcon with an I-6 was hard to start that way, turns out both his choke AND accelerator pump were inoperative....
We could close the choke by hand (Removing the air cleaner and actually closing the butterfly by hand) and it would fire...
No accelerator pump + choke valve loose on the shaft = 1 tough car to get started every morning....
Either one or the other working would probably get you by in FLA...
We could close the choke by hand (Removing the air cleaner and actually closing the butterfly by hand) and it would fire...
No accelerator pump + choke valve loose on the shaft = 1 tough car to get started every morning....
Either one or the other working would probably get you by in FLA...
#10
If you can't figure it out from the replies here (it could be a number different things), a mechanic can tell in short order if it is indeed a defective choke, a choke that isn't set right, a gas leak, a vacuum leak, or even a bad fuel pump after a quick inspection.
The best way to examine a choke is to start it with the engine ice cold. That might mean dropping it off at the shop the night before so it can be checked first thing in the morning. It may be a PITA to do that, but you will solve any choke issues for good that way and be done with it. Improperly set chokes will rob you of power, and can make your MPG skyrocket if you're running too rich.
If you don't have an electric choke, you might want to get one. It's the best way to go for effortless driving. Good luck PLG.
CP
The best way to examine a choke is to start it with the engine ice cold. That might mean dropping it off at the shop the night before so it can be checked first thing in the morning. It may be a PITA to do that, but you will solve any choke issues for good that way and be done with it. Improperly set chokes will rob you of power, and can make your MPG skyrocket if you're running too rich.
If you don't have an electric choke, you might want to get one. It's the best way to go for effortless driving. Good luck PLG.
CP