jrherald420

It is a cool build, thats what im kinda shooting for and yeah thats a stop sign floor pan!!! lol I figured i could use speed limit signs for the rest of the floor and save some cash!!! lol

HGC

It sure looks like it. I love that. Looks like they shaped it pretty good so as long as it is just a patch what does it matter where the steel comes from. Most stop signs are pretty heavy gauge anyway.
Congrats on the new car. Good luck on a new job.

jrherald420

Thanks, i laughed when i saw it too. The orignal owner did that, the guy i bought it off of said he had 3 cops stop and look at it, they laughed also.

jrherald420

I just got a rough estiment from K.A.R. in Ohio on doing the floor pans, between 1200.00 and 1700.00 in labor + parts depending if they have to replace the floor braces, lower part of the firewall or seat risers. Can any body else chime in about what it cost you???
Thanks.

LynnBob Mustang

I know a full cowl will cost here over $2000 to put in.
That is why when I get the '65 I'm getting a welder. Then I will be learning how to use it and with help from the guys I work with that weld on equipment. Just on the cowl job I can get it done for half of that alone and after that it will only be my time, parts, and welding supplies.

It'll need some other minor floor pan work, so I will start there, then go to the rear trunk brace, then to the lower trunk, inner rocker patch on one side, and then the full outer rocker on the other side. The rear quarters will be the last thing I do.

I hope to save a ton of $$$ doing it my self, the new sheet metal parts already come with the car, and I will get some good experience that I can pass on to my boy when he gets older.

Lynn

jrherald420

i wouldnt mind doing the floors myself but living in an apartment i cant even have the car here, let alone trying to work on it.

4reboy

bwahahaha I say keep the stop sign!

That price seems high for floor pans though, I think you can find a better price. Or you can try to get a package deal of floors with your lower quarter panels and whatever else you find, might get a better deal as a whole.

But looks like you have a solid car there. Engine wise I would stick with a small block, it will make your life a lot easier and it is less expensive. My dad is building his 428cj (actually 2 engines) and damn those big blocks can potentially be pricey. Compared to a small block at least and what you do to it...

So with that said the 351w is a great engine, will fit easily, and you can stroke it out to 408 or so if you want extra cubes. Or you can buy a running 5.0 from a junkyard, change the intake to a carb one and be done with it, or go full efi route! You have a lot of options by not having anything in there right now, and the 68 engine bay is big enough to fit most engines.

jrherald420

Ok so after a couple of days checking out pics of peoples Mustangs and thumbing thru a bunch of magazines to get some ideas on the route i am wanting to go with this Mustang, ive figured it out!!!

I knew i was wanting the Shelby taillights and side scoops along with the duck tail spoiler on the trunk and it hit me when i opened the November issue of Auto Traders Mustang and Ford trader pg 6-11......Why not build a 68 Metallic Medium Blue California Special clone?!?!?!

jrherald420

I was able to start gutting out the interior today. So far ive got most of the dash stuff tore out, the wiring is pretty spliced so its all going in the trash. I found more rust but i expected that, looks like im going to need some cowl repair. It doesnt look bad from under the dash but without removing the upper cowl panel who knows what its like. I also forund some rot in the trunk down by the bottom of the quarters. Im going back out to work on it now since it quit raining and ill get some pics.