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Old 10-07-2009, 01:05 PM   #1
03T1000
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Vehicle: 2003 Terminator Vert 504 RWHP
Location: PA
Posts: 6
Default 65/66 200ci engine swap, shakes hard!

Here is the background:

Neihbors car (66 Mustang 200ci, all stock and original) needs a new engine or rebuild. He finds a used engine in the paper from an older gentleman that purchased a car from out west. The car was driven over to western PA and delivered to the new owner and the straight six was immediately pulled and replaced with a 289.

So the gentlman does not know much at all about the engine that was pulled other than its a Holley 2 brl and adjustable valve train with a mild cam. He thinks it is a 250ci but not sure.

I remove his 200ci original engine, paint and pretty up the "new engine" and install it. Last Monday I finally get it started and she is shaking hard! At idle it shakes, and as you accelerate it shakes in time with engine speed.

I used the flex plate and convertor from his original 200ci engine. It is a flex plate with no ring gear, the starter ring gear is welded as part of the convertor.

Questions in my head:

Why is this thing shaking?
Could it have 250 internals in a C5 block and require some other flex plate and convertor?
Are 200 and 250 engines all internally ballanced?
What method could be used to determine if it is a 200 vs 250 without removing the engine again?

If you have any advise or input, I am all ears!

Pictures are often worth a thousand words, so I will post these up in hopes that it helps.

Thank you for any input you may have to offer!









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Old 10-07-2009, 03:17 PM   #2
MetalEd
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Default

just a thought, Did you use the stock 200 motor mounts, 260 mounts or adjustable aftermarket ones? The 200 uses different mounts than than 260. They might "fit", but might be too tight or offset a little causing the problem?
Totally uneducated in this area, so this is just my first thought.

Engine size? No Tag hanging on the coil bracket? (engine ID tag, that would be too easy <GRIN>) The ford code is stamped on the "inside" of the intake manifold. BUT, The easiest way? The water pump!

Water Pumps: All 144/170/200ci engines used a 3 bolt water pump, while the 250ci six utilized a 4 bolt water pump. This is the easiest way to distinguish a 250ci from the 144/170/200ci six.

This info and other ways to tell your engine size are at:
http://classicinlines.com/Ident.asp

Also, Check their other tech pages on upgrading your six, it might just have the other answer you are looking for.

What's with the oil pan? modified? Looks way too tall for a 200CI engine.

Anyhow, hope something here helps!
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:22 PM   #3
03T1000
 
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Based on just what you have said so far, it has to be a 200ci block, because I moved all of the stock accessories from the 200 over to the new engine. Water pump included. I thought the 250 and 200 were the same block, only the 250 having the longer stroke and same bore.

The oil pan was modded to hold 6 qts. It was simply cut and welded to allow for overall more fluid capacity.

The engine mounts are the stock mounts and the engine settled right down onto them.

The trans is the stock trans as are the flex plate and the convertor.

Being an internally ballanced engine, what the heck could have it crazy out of ballance like this?
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:10 PM   #4
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Anyone else? It feels like a engine speed related shake. No tick or other unusual sounds, only the hard/violent shake like a severe out of ballance condition.

I have learned that all 200 type blocks were internally ballanced.
The 250 is a dif block with a 289/302 bell housing and not directly interchangeable.
This can not be a 250, it sat right in.

Any good ideas for diagnosing this without pulling it back out and tearing apart?
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:14 AM   #5
Stepman
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Double check your firing order. It doesn't look right from what I see but, hard to tell.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:27 PM   #6
JHPSTANG
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+1 on firing order. Can't quite see from the pic, but is #1 correct?
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Old 10-09-2009, 06:04 PM   #7
03T1000
 
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Looking at the last picture posted, The #1 is the U shaped wire coming from the right side (your right side while viewing the picture) and it goes from there to the front most plug. I guess I did nit verify that the cylinders are #1 in the front to #6 in the rear, but I did ASSUME it to be as such.

Last night I retimed it, started it with no valve cover and loosened each rocker until I got tapping and then took the tap out and went an additional 1/2 turn tighter. I tweaked with the new Holley a bit as well and the shake is much reduced. It is still there, but I do not think it is a ballance issue. If you bring the revs up to 2500 or 3000 (going by the ear tach) everything is smooth as glass. There is a very rough period maybe 500 RPM's above idle still and if you go another 500 or so it really quickly smooths back out.

I'm really blaming tune at this point....unless I learn that the cylinder order is not front to back 1-2-3-4-5-6...... I think I may just need to work with the timing a bit to make the cam happy.

Please do correct me on the fireing order in the case that my assumption is in error.
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:26 PM   #8
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You do have the right cylinder order but, is the firing order correct?
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