Engine cranks no fire
12-01-2009, 12:10 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
Posts: 6
Engine cranks no fire
Help 
I am trying to start up a 1966 Mustang Coupe, 289, 2bbl carb thats been sitting. Here's what ive done so far; drained the old (yellow) gas, flushed the lines, replaced, condensor, pointset (gap at .32 cause specs say .30 to .33) spark plugs, coil, starter solenoid, new battery, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires new leads on coil to dist and wiring from dashboard (ignition key) to coil. Have tested the + terminal to engine block for continuity and its good. Key off-nothing, key on-get signal. But no spark from coil to distributor, its a brand new coil and i even tested it for resistance.
Engine cranks just fine but it wont start. Where is my electrical break?
I am trying to start up a 1966 Mustang Coupe, 289, 2bbl carb thats been sitting. Here's what ive done so far; drained the old (yellow) gas, flushed the lines, replaced, condensor, pointset (gap at .32 cause specs say .30 to .33) spark plugs, coil, starter solenoid, new battery, distributor cap & rotor, spark plug wires new leads on coil to dist and wiring from dashboard (ignition key) to coil. Have tested the + terminal to engine block for continuity and its good. Key off-nothing, key on-get signal. But no spark from coil to distributor, its a brand new coil and i even tested it for resistance. Engine cranks just fine but it wont start. Where is my electrical break?
12-01-2009, 04:09 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 2,100
Welcome to the forum. This is the general section, so you should probably post this in the technical classic section. A bunch more help will come from there. I would get a wiring diagram for the mustang and check that out. There used some links to wiring diagrams in the FAQ section.
To get you started, with a point type ignition the positive pole of the coil should be connected to the ignition solenoid (i or ignition terminal). This post will have full voltage while cranking (12v) and resistance voltage (9v) when running. The negative pole of the coil should be connected to the distributor (points breaker) and should ground out only when the distributor is requesting spark come out the high voltage side of the coil. Otherwise it is open. Think of the - as being a trigger.
If you have good voltage to the + post and have a good connection from the - post to the dizzy points, and you still are not getting spark out of the coil, the problem is probably in your dizzy.
Hope this helps.
To get you started, with a point type ignition the positive pole of the coil should be connected to the ignition solenoid (i or ignition terminal). This post will have full voltage while cranking (12v) and resistance voltage (9v) when running. The negative pole of the coil should be connected to the distributor (points breaker) and should ground out only when the distributor is requesting spark come out the high voltage side of the coil. Otherwise it is open. Think of the - as being a trigger.
If you have good voltage to the + post and have a good connection from the - post to the dizzy points, and you still are not getting spark out of the coil, the problem is probably in your dizzy.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by urban_cowboy; 12-01-2009 at 04:34 PM.
12-02-2009, 05:59 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Az
Posts: 1,090
I would look at the points gap. With the dist cap off, crank the motor and make sure that they open and close. I set them up to almost contact the "flat" of the dist cam, then bump the motor to make sure they open. If you can find a dwell meter to set them, it'll be more accurate than "gapping" them.
Thanks for that will try it but ah, ya lost me on the 'dizzy points'. . .
12-05-2009, 11:36 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
Posts: 6
I would look at the points gap. With the dist cap off, crank the motor and make sure that they open and close. I set them up to almost contact the "flat" of the dist cam, then bump the motor to make sure they open. If you can find a dwell meter to set them, it'll be more accurate than "gapping" them.
12-05-2009, 11:37 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: California
Posts: 6
Welcome to the forum. This is the general section, so you should probably post this in the technical classic section. A bunch more help will come from there. I would get a wiring diagram for the mustang and check that out. There used some links to wiring diagrams in the FAQ section.
To get you started, with a point type ignition the positive pole of the coil should be connected to the ignition solenoid (i or ignition terminal). This post will have full voltage while cranking (12v) and resistance voltage (9v) when running. The negative pole of the coil should be connected to the distributor (points breaker) and should ground out only when the distributor is requesting spark come out the high voltage side of the coil. Otherwise it is open. Think of the - as being a trigger.
If you have good voltage to the + post and have a good connection from the - post to the dizzy points, and you still are not getting spark out of the coil, the problem is probably in your dizzy.
Hope this helps.
To get you started, with a point type ignition the positive pole of the coil should be connected to the ignition solenoid (i or ignition terminal). This post will have full voltage while cranking (12v) and resistance voltage (9v) when running. The negative pole of the coil should be connected to the distributor (points breaker) and should ground out only when the distributor is requesting spark come out the high voltage side of the coil. Otherwise it is open. Think of the - as being a trigger.
If you have good voltage to the + post and have a good connection from the - post to the dizzy points, and you still are not getting spark out of the coil, the problem is probably in your dizzy.
Hope this helps.
12-07-2009, 11:23 AM
#8
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 2,100
Thank you. No need for a big block to break parts. It was originally a 351W car, but now has a Dart Block 383@ stroker making about 475ft*lbs @ 4000 and 440hp @ 6000. With a any more torque, I would have to custom build a drive line and probably build a tube chassis to support it.
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