67 289 overheats after like 10 minutes?
06-29-2010, 05:52 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 208
67 289 overheats after like 10 minutes?
Just got my car back from the shop after having the timing chain replaced. Well i noticed after only about ten minutes the temp guage was climbing pretty steadily. And got to the point when you shut it off the radiator overflow would start shooting out hot anitfreeze and turn into smoke. What could be causing this? The thermostat was also replaced too so i don't see why it would be that.
06-30-2010, 02:38 AM
#4
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 92
.
Hi Blue & Overheat,
Caution, this thread is a bit long , all for the reason to help fellow Mustangers !
Here it is ;
May be you’d like to start from the easiest ;
Cause # 1 ; Air trapped in the cooling system.
1. Check the water / liquid level, when cold.
2. Before start engine, open the water filling cap, look & see whether any trace of oil in the water / liquid. If you’re not sure, have your index finger wipe the inside of the water neck, if there is greasy feeling or trace of oil, the problem may be of the cylinder head / gasket. This is just checking, don’t do anything yet.
3. Leave the water filling cap open, start your engine, if you see air bubbles coming up, fill up with the liquid and see if the bubbles are still there. This could happen from 2 things ;
A. If the air gets trap in the cooling system..it will cause the heating problem.. and by leaving the cap open , you are letting the trapped air out. Let the engine run for may be 5 minutes.
B. If the air bubbles always come up no matter how long you wait, then there is a leak somewhere at the cylinder heads. It may cause from old & harden gasket which once you replaced the gasket, the problem should be gone. Sometimes the gasket is replaced, but the bubbles resisted that would mean your cylinder heads are warped…the problem is now big, but you can fix it by either have the heads machined to have a straight ones, or change to new heads.
Cause # 2 ; The cooling system malfunctions.
1. The thermostat ; as was mentioned by friends, sometimes the old but not reliable thermostat ( resides within the housing on top of the engine, a connecting point with the radiator .. via water hose ) could kill the engine, as it won’t open and the flow of the water / liquid is not happening. The only curing is to change. But you indicated it has just been changed, perhaps the guy must re-check and re-do / re-change for a better & workable one.
2. The Water Hose ; there are 2, the upper and the lower. The lower could cause a pain as it could be squeezed via strong suction of water pump. The lower hose usually has some kind of wire inside with the purpose to keep the hose as hollow and let the water flow as much as it should. Check if there is a trace of squeezed hose, if yes, replace it with the one with wire inside.
3. The water pump ; it helps circulating the water, but after sometime, some of the turbine's teeth may be broken, the circulation is not happening. Hence, the water pump need to be changed.
4. Belt to water pump too loose ; Rule of thump is once tighten , press the belt down, it should go by around 1/2 inch. If it is more, then it is too loose, and tighten it up to cure the problem.
There are many more causes of the heating ; too much advance of the timing , carb setting too lean, radiator leaking, etc. But please start checking from the above first as they are the easiest and most obvious.
….. and who said drivin’ old cars ain’t fun !
Cheers,
GM.
.
Hi Blue & Overheat,
Caution, this thread is a bit long , all for the reason to help fellow Mustangers !
Here it is ;
May be you’d like to start from the easiest ;
Cause # 1 ; Air trapped in the cooling system.
1. Check the water / liquid level, when cold.
2. Before start engine, open the water filling cap, look & see whether any trace of oil in the water / liquid. If you’re not sure, have your index finger wipe the inside of the water neck, if there is greasy feeling or trace of oil, the problem may be of the cylinder head / gasket. This is just checking, don’t do anything yet.
3. Leave the water filling cap open, start your engine, if you see air bubbles coming up, fill up with the liquid and see if the bubbles are still there. This could happen from 2 things ;
A. If the air gets trap in the cooling system..it will cause the heating problem.. and by leaving the cap open , you are letting the trapped air out. Let the engine run for may be 5 minutes.
B. If the air bubbles always come up no matter how long you wait, then there is a leak somewhere at the cylinder heads. It may cause from old & harden gasket which once you replaced the gasket, the problem should be gone. Sometimes the gasket is replaced, but the bubbles resisted that would mean your cylinder heads are warped…the problem is now big, but you can fix it by either have the heads machined to have a straight ones, or change to new heads.
Cause # 2 ; The cooling system malfunctions.
1. The thermostat ; as was mentioned by friends, sometimes the old but not reliable thermostat ( resides within the housing on top of the engine, a connecting point with the radiator .. via water hose ) could kill the engine, as it won’t open and the flow of the water / liquid is not happening. The only curing is to change. But you indicated it has just been changed, perhaps the guy must re-check and re-do / re-change for a better & workable one.
2. The Water Hose ; there are 2, the upper and the lower. The lower could cause a pain as it could be squeezed via strong suction of water pump. The lower hose usually has some kind of wire inside with the purpose to keep the hose as hollow and let the water flow as much as it should. Check if there is a trace of squeezed hose, if yes, replace it with the one with wire inside.
3. The water pump ; it helps circulating the water, but after sometime, some of the turbine's teeth may be broken, the circulation is not happening. Hence, the water pump need to be changed.
4. Belt to water pump too loose ; Rule of thump is once tighten , press the belt down, it should go by around 1/2 inch. If it is more, then it is too loose, and tighten it up to cure the problem.
There are many more causes of the heating ; too much advance of the timing , carb setting too lean, radiator leaking, etc. But please start checking from the above first as they are the easiest and most obvious.
….. and who said drivin’ old cars ain’t fun !
Cheers,
GM.
.
Last edited by George Manont; 06-30-2010 at 02:53 AM.
07-01-2010, 01:29 AM
#6
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 8
If your car is overheating that quickly it could be air in the cooling system.
Another problem could be from the timing being very retarded. That will also cause your car to run hot.
Or you could be running very lean through the carb. If its not air in the cooling system, I would retime your engine and adjust the carb accordingly.
Another problem could be from the timing being very retarded. That will also cause your car to run hot.
Or you could be running very lean through the carb. If its not air in the cooling system, I would retime your engine and adjust the carb accordingly.
07-01-2010, 01:31 AM
#7
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 8
If your car is overheating that quickly it could be air in the cooling system.
Another problem could be from the timing being very retarded. That will also cause your car to run hot.
Or you could be running very lean through the carb. If its not air in the cooling system, I would retime your engine and adjust the carb accordingly.
Another problem could be from the timing being very retarded. That will also cause your car to run hot.
Or you could be running very lean through the carb. If its not air in the cooling system, I would retime your engine and adjust the carb accordingly.
If you are off by a tooth that could either advance or retard your timing by a bit. The car will start and run OK if the timing is a little retarded. That paired with a lean mix out of the carb could be causing your problem.
Does it overheat at highway speeds?
