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Prodject---My dads Pony

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Old 09-24-2010, 01:36 AM   #41
tx65coupe
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Thank you..

A quick question on the seats. The replacement covers and base for the drivers seat are identical except for the type of materila thats used so I suspect thats the only difference? Without having a full on stock 66' to compare with I can only assume thats the case.
If you look at this picture of a 67 seat you will see that the one you had before looks like a 67 seat. I don't know if the seat frames etc are the same or not, but I think they are.

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Old 09-24-2010, 02:02 AM   #42
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Thanks tx65coupe. It looks like the only difference is the fact the center ribs are smooth on the 67' Interesting...
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:40 PM   #43
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So I have been putting in late nights to try and make one last hard push on this thing.



One thing I told my dad I wanted to do was the engine bay(looks just AWFULL) and redo the wiring in crashfab form.



Here is the whole wiring mess--dang old cars were so simple.



Click the image to open in full size.



Here is the engine bay with all removed items than I plan on removing(shock towers, cross supports, brake master,battery tray and brake lines). The shock towers were a pain due to the bolts spinning and I had to cut the brake lines to get them off the ends(rust).



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Old 09-25-2010, 01:39 AM   #44
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Man you are an inspiration, if half showed the love that you did this world would be a different place! I am impressed with your strides and urge you to continue the great work! I can't wait to see the final product and hear about your dad and moms trip in it!

God bless
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:26 AM   #45
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So I am just busting along. One thing I do know is the fact I won't be happy with how the engine bay will turn out. Many know of how I am a perfectionist but this time I have to limit myself. The one and only way for me to get what I would like to do would mean more than we have time for. So I am just shooting for it to look allot better.



So I have been working away and removing rust and some paint/goop. But its coming along.



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Here is the lip that I spent some time on. I totaly removed all the VERY hard body seam sealer because I was very certain there was some rust there. And yup there was. So what I did just cut the lip down to where all 3 sections (Cowl cover,lower cowl and firewall) were even and I could get into the seam and kill what rust I could.



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At that point once I kill what rust I can I will rebuild a water troft so the water runs down the cowl and not over and into the seam. I figure thats going to be my best option.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:34 AM   #46
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Thanks for taking the time to post pics for us. The rate you're going it'll be done in no time. What color will it be painted?
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:35 AM   #47
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So this was where things for me went south and the first time I got rather upset over the prodject. As I was working at the cowl area I took my blow gun and started blowing the crap that was down in the cowl and thats when I saw a bunch of rusted metal chucks. So I got under the dash and pulled the heater box out.



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And thats where I got upset. Those who are familure with this body style know what I mean.



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The rise(I have heard it refered to as a hat) that keeps the water from running into the heater case was gone. I took a close look at the cowl body itself under the dash and that seems pretty solid and no small rust holes. At this point I looked over at the passenger fresh air vent and noticed there was sealer up around it and the hat looked like it was new(or done before my dad got the car). Thats when I got the idea to made a new one and just glue it in like the drivers side.



So I called my dad and told him what I had found(upset of course over it) and just talking to him helped me calm down. We both came to the conclusion that we are sticking to the plan of trying to get it done and not doing a full restore. At this time I told him of my plan to make a new one and he was pretty thilled at this. So I got off the phone and started reading on the net. Thats when I found they have replacement hats(ventr repair kits) and just had to tell him about it--he again was thrilled.



So I am back in the game and moving forward.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:44 AM   #48
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So when I got the heater box out I noticed alot of just rust(not deep) all over and looked like most of it came from the seam that I had worked on in the engine bay. So I got on my back with wire wheel in hand and made allot of brown clouds. So now its ready to also be sealed when I do the floor.



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One of the pressed in hinge mounts had pulled thru for the hood. So I had to rework the metal to where the insert was back into place. A couple others had also spun so I decided to go ahead and tack all of them in.



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Here is the worse part of the engine bay---the battery tray and the fenderwell around where it sits.



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So tonight I got all the rusted areas wire wheeled and then rust killer on those areas. At that point I went and scrubbed down the whole engine bay and washed it down--last big step before ready to paint.



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And here is the bad spot. I took and removed all of the ruff edges and then hit it hard with rust killer. The new battery tray will help give it the support it needs.



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Old 09-25-2010, 02:47 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66JameStang View Post
Man you are an inspiration, if half showed the love that you did this world would be a different place! I am impressed with your strides and urge you to continue the great work! I can't wait to see the final product and hear about your dad and moms trip in it!

God bless
Thank you..

The only thing I really wish was me and my dad didn't do this long ago like we wanted and the both of us could have done a top notch job with no corners cut.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:48 AM   #50
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Thanks for taking the time to post pics for us. The rate you're going it'll be done in no time. What color will it be painted?
Thank you. Hopefully I can inspire somebody else along the way.

We don't know yet on the color. He wants a red of some kind and my brother in law Don has a book of colors and they are going to get that figured out within the next week.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:44 AM   #51
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Its obvious that you are determined to get it done, with all the progres thats been made.

Since you have to replace the battery tray anyway, I would recommend the 67 style hold down. There is a conversion tray available. Its a much better setup.

There are alot of cool classic colors that were available back then. I wouldn't choose red. I would go with an original available color though. If he likes red, how about vintage burgandy?
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:55 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by tx65coupe View Post
Its obvious that you are determined to get it done, with all the progres thats been made.

Since you have to replace the battery tray anyway, I would recommend the 67 style hold down. There is a conversion tray available. Its a much better setup.

There are alot of cool classic colors that were available back then. I wouldn't choose red. I would go with an original available color though. If he likes red, how about vintage burgandy?
One step ahead of ya I had him order the 67 style bracket
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:47 AM   #53
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God its good to see this thread, I have been hoping to get this project started for a couple years now, I just wish it wasnt under the current circumstances, but am glad to be a part of it, and thank you all for your kind words, it REALLY MEANS A LOT!! Bob has been a GREAT father in law, and wonderful grandfather to my daughter, and I truly am grateful to have a wonderful brother like CRASHfab to help his sister and my wife through this trying time if our families life
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:42 AM   #54
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Ok still working thru things. I got the engine bay all whiped down and prepped and masked off. I didn't make accordinly to the factory lines of the engine bay but was pretty close. I also chose to remove the hood latch assembly and paint the front of the core support. I figured it would look cleaner once the car in painted and the new front items are installed.

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Old 09-27-2010, 12:52 AM   #55
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I was going thru items that wse have removed to date and figured since I am getting closer it was time to get the hood hinges ready. We got new ones without springs.



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Now I was figuring these would be a complete bear to remove off the old ones and put onto the new ones and figured I would need to make a tool to aid in it. Well I sat back and an idea popped into my head and it turned out to be a golden idea.



So what I did was use a punch firmly placed in the vice. I took the hinge and slid the one side of the hingle/spring down over the punch to grab the one side of the spring. I took a rachet strap from the post in my shop and to the other side of the spring and racheted it down.



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It worked like a champ. To release the pressure on the spring I just released the rachet strap while holding the free length of strap to calm the recoil.



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Cleaned the springs and did the same thing to install the springs on the new hinges.



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And I thought I was going to beat myself up doing them..
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:58 AM   #56
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I did one light coat on the seam area at the cowl and then sealed the seam up. In the areas with bad rust that I killed (battery area and above the steering column) I did multiple coats over a period of a number of hours. But I just got done doing a final coat on the whole thing. Don has the cross supports and shock towers and he is going to sand blast them and I will get them painted tommorow night. But I am not totaly happy with how it turned out but I was expecting that due to not totaly stripping the whole area. But it does look a TON better.



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Old 09-27-2010, 07:50 AM   #57
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Looking good! Thanks for posting up that little description on removing the springs, I'm going to be redoing my hood hinges and I didn't know a good way to remove the springs.

Also, the engine bay looks great!!!
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:00 AM   #58
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Ok put another good amount of time into it. I figured since I had the heater box sitting there I needed to get it done up.



Both the doors inside the case were stuck in place and the frest air door at the passengers foot was also stuck in place.





So I tore it apart.



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I cleaned the heater core and flushed it out.



Man it was a mess inside. Granted not all of it was from the heater assembly itself but it was pretty rusty inside.



Click the image to open in full size.



So it took some work and PB blaster. I had to have allot of patience to finally free up the stuck doors but I was able to do so. All the metal parts got coated with naval jelly to help kill the rust then all metal parts inside got painted to help keep anything from flaking off.



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I fully assembled the case and chose to just paint the whole assembly. The composit part of the case had rust stains in it and I felt it would look better all one color.



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Old 09-28-2010, 04:39 AM   #59
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The heater box looks so much better now. Did you replace all the foam inside it? The kit for that is only about 10 bucks or so.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:09 AM   #60
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I agree with TX65, it looks so much better! Mine looks about the same as yours did when you started! I guess I'll follow the same process as you to restore them.
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:09 AM
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