Potential Project Mustang? (Needs to be identified!)
#1
Potential Project Mustang? (Needs to be identified!)
Hey everyone,
I have been drooling for the past few days over a Mustang I found for sale on the side of the road. I'm not even sure what year it is or what engine it has under the hood, which is where you guys come in. Can you identify this car? Also, what do you think a fair price would be? I haven't been able to see what's under the hood, but I do know that it is an automatic transmission, and that the interior is ruined. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have been drooling for the past few days over a Mustang I found for sale on the side of the road. I'm not even sure what year it is or what engine it has under the hood, which is where you guys come in. Can you identify this car? Also, what do you think a fair price would be? I haven't been able to see what's under the hood, but I do know that it is an automatic transmission, and that the interior is ruined. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Looks like a 1967 coupe. I bet it has either a 289 or straight 6. Looks rusty especially if it is indeed in Georgia, and like it's been out of commission for awhile. I would pay maybe $2K-$4K depending on the condition of all the unknowns. Coupes are available cheaper than most mustangs, so they don't get too pricey in that condition.
#3
Thanks for the reply! I'm going to give the guy a call tomorrow to see if I can find any more information out about the car, especially the engine, and if it will run or not. If it will run with a little help, how much do you think it would cost to get it to drivable condition?
#6
Yep, should be a V8. Probably a factory V8 which is a small plus. Chances are that the engine isn't running, especially seeing that battery in front of the car, haha.
When you go look at it again, look on the underside for rust. Also, open her up (if you can) and look under the driver and passenger floorboard carpets for rust. Rust is typical in those spots.
When you go look at it again, look on the underside for rust. Also, open her up (if you can) and look under the driver and passenger floorboard carpets for rust. Rust is typical in those spots.
#7
Also ask him if it would be ok to pop the back seat out and look at the metal under the back seat. Also look underneith the doors for rust. If you want to be really picky get a good magnet and a piece of paper and run it over the car to see if he bondoed anything on it.
Also if it is a 289 and it runs and is drive able no higher then $3k not running/driveable $2k to $2.5k
If its a 300 inline 6 running and drive able $2.6k not running/driveable $2k or lower.
Ofcourse that all depends on the rust factor (how bad it is, where it is, and is it something you can fix yourself)
Also if it is a 289 and it runs and is drive able no higher then $3k not running/driveable $2k to $2.5k
If its a 300 inline 6 running and drive able $2.6k not running/driveable $2k or lower.
Ofcourse that all depends on the rust factor (how bad it is, where it is, and is it something you can fix yourself)
Last edited by Trigg; 10-31-2010 at 09:54 PM.
#8
Also ask him if it would be ok to pop the back seat out and look at the metal under the back seat. Also look underneith the doors for rust. If you want to be really picky get a good magnet and a piece of paper and run it over the car to see if he bondoed anything on it.
Also if it is a 289 and it runs and is drive able no higher then $3k not running/driveable $2k to $2.5k
If its a 300 inline 6 running and drive able $2.6k not running/driveable $2k or lower.
Ofcourse that all depends on the rust factor (how bad it is, where it is, and is it something you can fix yourself)
Also if it is a 289 and it runs and is drive able no higher then $3k not running/driveable $2k to $2.5k
If its a 300 inline 6 running and drive able $2.6k not running/driveable $2k or lower.
Ofcourse that all depends on the rust factor (how bad it is, where it is, and is it something you can fix yourself)
And as trigg pointed out, the "rust factor" means everything on these classic cars. If you can/are willing to fix the rust yourself, you're in good shape if you find some.
And I agree with those price ranges, as long as it's not too rusty or anything.
I paid $1,500 for a non-running '68 6cyl that has a solid body and then $1,800 for my '67 V8 that's running but has body damage. Both cars are worth what I paid, in my opinion.
#10
Thank you all so much for the overwhelming response and advice! If I decide to pursue this, I will definitely know what to look for as far as rust and other things go. I'm just not sure that I have the time and money available right now to start up a project like this!