Help requested on 1967, 289 Stock to Mild Performance Build
#13
After talking to the Edelbrock Tech Support; the Performer RPM Heads for the 289 with stock pistons the intake valves need to be 1.90”; therefore it is part number Edelbrock 60229. These heads are for stock pistons w/o a notch cut so that there would not be any clearance problems.
I like the name percy “SEAL 4 GOOD” gaskets; that kinda says it all, huh?
Do you have any suggestions for the right headers to go with the gaskets? I know Kalli, you have the long tube Hookers and tx65coupe, you are using the JBA’s. Are there headers that will give me clearance w/o moving my P/S steering ram. When I had headers back in the 70’s and I lowered the P/S ram I thought that the steering just wasn’t as good. Would I possibly be able to use Shorty’s and get around moving the ram?
Oh, and THANKS FOR THE HELP AGAIN! Maybe soon I will be totally enjoying my candy-apple red ‘stang like you guys…
I like the name percy “SEAL 4 GOOD” gaskets; that kinda says it all, huh?
Do you have any suggestions for the right headers to go with the gaskets? I know Kalli, you have the long tube Hookers and tx65coupe, you are using the JBA’s. Are there headers that will give me clearance w/o moving my P/S steering ram. When I had headers back in the 70’s and I lowered the P/S ram I thought that the steering just wasn’t as good. Would I possibly be able to use Shorty’s and get around moving the ram?
Oh, and THANKS FOR THE HELP AGAIN! Maybe soon I will be totally enjoying my candy-apple red ‘stang like you guys…
#14
yes, it'll have to be the 1.9" intake valve version alright. I have the 2.02 (6025x), but I have different pistons. Stock has to be 1.9, can't go bigger. my car came with long tube headers and i wanted to replace them so stayed with long tubes. If you're starting from scratch so to say, sure go for shorter one. better ground clearance, long tube are quite low. you want good header gaskets as they constantly blow otherwise, i think the seal 4 good are the same material used in exhaust donuts. so it's a bit more flexible. can't re-use them, but if you get it right the first time you're good.
Before you start building make sure to post when you have all parts, there are a few typical things first-timers trap into (me included, so let's call it experience) ;-)
as for the headers, it would be good to make sure that the tubes are a size up from stock. Tell the seller what heads you have and he can get you something matching. it would be a shame to reduce the big exhaust port in the heads with small header tubes
Kalli
Before you start building make sure to post when you have all parts, there are a few typical things first-timers trap into (me included, so let's call it experience) ;-)
as for the headers, it would be good to make sure that the tubes are a size up from stock. Tell the seller what heads you have and he can get you something matching. it would be a shame to reduce the big exhaust port in the heads with small header tubes
Kalli
#15
Thank you Kalli!
Yes, when everything is here on-site I’ll list all the parts (and #’s) and then we can get started doing it right the first time (with your experience of course!).
I’ll verify the header selection when I start to research those. Shorty’s would be nice, I just want to have clearance inside the engine compartment (that was why I took them off 20 years ago, when it would take me over an hour to change the two rear spark plugs and many knuckle scrapings).
Post to you soon…
Yes, when everything is here on-site I’ll list all the parts (and #’s) and then we can get started doing it right the first time (with your experience of course!).
I’ll verify the header selection when I start to research those. Shorty’s would be nice, I just want to have clearance inside the engine compartment (that was why I took them off 20 years ago, when it would take me over an hour to change the two rear spark plugs and many knuckle scrapings).
Post to you soon…
#16
Congrats on your purchases! Sounds like you got some great prices and the components are well matched. Although not what I recommended (cam choice, mix/matched parts), I think you can put together a great motor. I will subscribe to this thread, so keep this one going though your start-up.
A few thoughts:
Shorty headers just for the ease of installation.
I'm assuming the motor is or will be out of the car? That timing cover to oil pain seal can be a bear to do in the car.
Be sure to get new header bolts and be very careful when torquing them into those nice new soft metal heads.
Be sure to use break-in lube and pour oil over your valve train and spin up your oil pump before cranking over.
A few thoughts:
Shorty headers just for the ease of installation.
I'm assuming the motor is or will be out of the car? That timing cover to oil pain seal can be a bear to do in the car.
Be sure to get new header bolts and be very careful when torquing them into those nice new soft metal heads.
Be sure to use break-in lube and pour oil over your valve train and spin up your oil pump before cranking over.
#18
with the engine out it is a lot easier and a lot better on your back. But I have done heads twice at least on those with engine in.
That timing cover to pan seal is an utter nightmatare. But I find it's rather fitting it into the timing cover. As I simply put it in and bolt the pan back up to squeeze it
here's the list of warnings:
1. do not run (however tempting) this engine with the original pushrods. you will need hardened pushrods measured to size. Very often with those swaps the original size is pretty ok. but again. you need hardened as otherwise the guideplates will eat into them
2. the block will have 2 little holes drilled. some drill all 8, check the heads instructions manual. It is very easy to do, the only problem I ever had with that was that i broke the drillbits once I was through to water jacket and had to peel them out again ... ask edelbrock if unsure. I drilled only 2 in my buddies block, but I think 8 would be better.
3. the camshaft has a specific break in procedure. You must not change from that.
We will find a link and or write it up for you. If you don't stick to that you will ruin the new cam (grind down lobes)
4. the intake manifold is a wedge. when you torque it down chances are another side is loose again. go over the torquing sequence so many times until no bolt turns anymore when setting to torque. In my experience you have to do the full sequence at least 5 times until nothing moves anymore. it is tedious on the back when engine is in car. has to be done. otherwise you risk overheating and things bending out of place
do not use the cork gaskets for the front and back, use a thick bead of silicone. I'll check for any manuals/instructions. this came up about 1000 times here already
5. buy a new set of ARP head bolts and intake bolts. do not re-use your old bolts there
6. if the intake gaskets come with an option to block the exhaust crossover, use it. We don't want the intake unneccessarily hot. i'll send a picture when you're at it.
7. mark the bolts where you pulled them oput. I still have trouble with waterpump/timing chain cover bolts. there are about 6 different lengths of bolt for the same thing ... so i spend 1 hour testing which one goes where. everytime. no more :-)
8. clean all surfaces properly where gaskets go on. mechanically and chemically clean (use a scraper and alcohol or cleaner)!
So let us know when you have it all apart :-)
Last edited by kalli; 11-29-2010 at 10:08 AM.
#19
Great information Guys!!!
GT350R_Klone, thanks for you insight. I chose the xe256 because it looks like from many posts that this is a cam that will give me a great low to mid performance and since I have an automatic C-4 that I would not need a stall converter since this will work with my existing RPM range. Everything else so far is Edelbrock and matched; I like this the best since these parts will all work perfectly together.
I appreciate your offer of the engine hoist and stand but I’m in Southern California, Orange County to be exact. (Not to get confused with the “OC”, it’s not really like that, hell that’s TV!)
Also, at this moment I’m planning on doing this project with the engine in the car and removing the radiator and grill most likely. I would like to work with it out side the engine compartment though…
Kallie, good thoughts on what I WILL DO, definitely all new bolts and mark the ones that come out that will be reused. My memory is shot as it is, let alone try to think I can remember which is which…I will take care to clean all surfaces correctly.
I don’t completely understand the drilling of the holes in the block but once I get the original heads off I bet things will start to become clearer.
I got the Edelbrock intake manifold gaskets for the intake but I’m not sure if these have or don’t have the exhaust crossovers??? I’ll investigate further.
I still need to get a pushrod checker; I will definitely not use the existing pushrods.
-Any specific pushrod checker you recommend?
Thank you both for guiding me in the right direction, I feel much more confident that my Mustang will gallop again…
GT350R_Klone, thanks for you insight. I chose the xe256 because it looks like from many posts that this is a cam that will give me a great low to mid performance and since I have an automatic C-4 that I would not need a stall converter since this will work with my existing RPM range. Everything else so far is Edelbrock and matched; I like this the best since these parts will all work perfectly together.
I appreciate your offer of the engine hoist and stand but I’m in Southern California, Orange County to be exact. (Not to get confused with the “OC”, it’s not really like that, hell that’s TV!)
Also, at this moment I’m planning on doing this project with the engine in the car and removing the radiator and grill most likely. I would like to work with it out side the engine compartment though…
Kallie, good thoughts on what I WILL DO, definitely all new bolts and mark the ones that come out that will be reused. My memory is shot as it is, let alone try to think I can remember which is which…I will take care to clean all surfaces correctly.
I don’t completely understand the drilling of the holes in the block but once I get the original heads off I bet things will start to become clearer.
I got the Edelbrock intake manifold gaskets for the intake but I’m not sure if these have or don’t have the exhaust crossovers??? I’ll investigate further.
I still need to get a pushrod checker; I will definitely not use the existing pushrods.
-Any specific pushrod checker you recommend?
Thank you both for guiding me in the right direction, I feel much more confident that my Mustang will gallop again…
#20
I don’t completely understand the drilling of the holes in the block but once I get the original heads off I bet things will start to become clearer.
I got the Edelbrock intake manifold gaskets for the intake but I’m not sure if these have or don’t have the exhaust crossovers??? I’ll investigate further.
I still need to get a pushrod checker; I will definitely not use the existing pushrods.
-Any specific pushrod checker you recommend?
Thank you both for guiding me in the right direction, I feel much more confident that my Mustang will gallop again…
I got the Edelbrock intake manifold gaskets for the intake but I’m not sure if these have or don’t have the exhaust crossovers??? I’ll investigate further.
I still need to get a pushrod checker; I will definitely not use the existing pushrods.
-Any specific pushrod checker you recommend?
Thank you both for guiding me in the right direction, I feel much more confident that my Mustang will gallop again…
2. the intake manifold gaskets have each: 4 holes for the intake ports, 2 holes for water jacket (near the outside of gasket) and al the boltholes. right between the inner 2 holes where the bolts would go the gasket might have another hole. that's for the exhaust crossover. if it doesn't have it good, if it has it there might be a small piece of gasket the same shape as the hole with the set. if there is use it.
3. pushrod lenght checker: i bought mine from compcams, they have them in different sizes. you can check with an original pushrod first (just to measure) and see if you are bang on already or in the ballpark. from that we can check which checker to get. it's not unheard of that with changing to the edelbrock kit you don't have to change pushrod size from stock much, however as said the rods themseles have to be changed as they are too soft. soo keep that off for a while