Sputters and dies while driving.
#11
Dropped the tank Friday and it was bad! I drained the fuel and washed it out and then reinspected it. There aren't any areas about to rust through thankfully, and I called up my local parts store and they said pressure wash the hell out of it and then put a piece of chain in it with a little gas and slosh it around, so I did that and it cleaned up most of the rust pretty well. After that I started calling around to find out if there was any thing else I could do to prevent it from rusting any more and I was continuously told Red-Kote. Did the research and found out that its pretty good stuff and come highly recommended. Coated the inside of the tank with it today and it has sealed the tank better than I thought it would. Stuff has a strong odor to it but it bonds to the rust like no other. Should be able to put the tank back in tomorow evening after the Red-kote has a chance to cure. Also running all new fuel lines.
#12
Cool I hope that works for you.
On a side note since you are on a budget you could try to clean out the fuel pump and regulator maybe they are okay. If they clean up you could just stick with the electric system until it completely fails.
A good mechanical pump usually cost about 70 bucks plus if the cam has been removed you'll have to pull the timing cover to install one.
I would also run double fuel filters and the last filter before the carb should be a high quality one (check summit)
-Gun
On a side note since you are on a budget you could try to clean out the fuel pump and regulator maybe they are okay. If they clean up you could just stick with the electric system until it completely fails.
A good mechanical pump usually cost about 70 bucks plus if the cam has been removed you'll have to pull the timing cover to install one.
I would also run double fuel filters and the last filter before the carb should be a high quality one (check summit)
-Gun
#13
Of course you are running a fuel filter right?
There are a few common things that will affect fuel delivery and a few not so common issues.
1. Obstructed fuel pickup (in tank)
2. Plugged fuel filter
3. Inoperative fuel pump
4. Kinked or internally collapsed rubber hose.
5. Tank air locked, (gas lid vent plugged)
6. Vapor Lock
That said, I want to say engines of that era used a fiber timing sprocket, and your symptoms sound like they might be indicative of slipped timing.
A vacuum gauge would help with diagnosis regardless.
There are a few common things that will affect fuel delivery and a few not so common issues.
1. Obstructed fuel pickup (in tank)
2. Plugged fuel filter
3. Inoperative fuel pump
4. Kinked or internally collapsed rubber hose.
5. Tank air locked, (gas lid vent plugged)
6. Vapor Lock
That said, I want to say engines of that era used a fiber timing sprocket, and your symptoms sound like they might be indicative of slipped timing.
A vacuum gauge would help with diagnosis regardless.
#14
Yep, running two filters, one between the tank and the pump and one right before the carb. I am still pretty sure it was the full due to the fact that it ran just fine in neutral when the fuel wasn't getting sloshed around due to bumps, but I will keep that in mind. As for cleaning the regulator and fuel pump, will do that as well. This summer I will probably go back to mechanical, have one on my F-250 and it works great, Too bad it need tranny work. Thanks for all your help, will keep you updated as to weather or not this all fixes the problem.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post