Front end Replacement ideas....?
#1
Front end Replacement ideas....?
Ok so i have a 66 mustang coupe with a brand new 302 motor in it and need some advice on things i need to start replacing on the front end on a budget.... Im a college student and this is my everyday driver ive been doing little by little over the past cpl years and have interior finished and and the motor and all the rest under the hood. and doing body work now. all new front end metal but i need help on the underside of the car like steering and A-arms and items like that...... I would like to replace these items with slight upgrade from stock so mild performance for the buck.
If you would like to see photos just ask and if there is any other things you would need to know just ask.
If you would like to see photos just ask and if there is any other things you would need to know just ask.
#2
See if your local parts stores carry MOOG or McQuay Norris first, my local O'Reillys got MOOG tie rods/sleeves next day so I saved shipping on those. I made the mistake of buying one of the all in one kits from MU and the repops are cheap. Spend a little more and get quality standard UCA from John at ORP,
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/streetupper/
he deburrs the shafts, sets them and welds on tabs so the shaft nuts can't unscrew.
While you have the UCA out, do the Shelby/Arning 1" drop,
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/droptemplate/
it will improve your alignment ability, put your tires flatter with modern tires vs. the '60's bias ply and give you better response/steering and it only lowers the front ~1/2" when done. Be sure to print the Shelby specs and have the car aligned to those and not the stock specs. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/
You can get MOOG LCA arms from him or for $55ea. from Virginia Classic Mustang
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.co...5126C1512.aspx
I'd suggest having the LCA bushing tack welded in a couple spots so it can't slide in it mount. This is what happened to my cheap repops and it was scraping metal/metal when I checked it 6mos. after install.
You can do roller spring perches from John at ORP also if you want a better ride and suspension response. I'd pop for those whenever you change the front springs.
This is a good starter article that explains the mustang suspension/steering and mentions the upgrades that are worth doing:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Jon
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/streetupper/
he deburrs the shafts, sets them and welds on tabs so the shaft nuts can't unscrew.
While you have the UCA out, do the Shelby/Arning 1" drop,
http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/droptemplate/
it will improve your alignment ability, put your tires flatter with modern tires vs. the '60's bias ply and give you better response/steering and it only lowers the front ~1/2" when done. Be sure to print the Shelby specs and have the car aligned to those and not the stock specs. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/
You can get MOOG LCA arms from him or for $55ea. from Virginia Classic Mustang
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.co...5126C1512.aspx
I'd suggest having the LCA bushing tack welded in a couple spots so it can't slide in it mount. This is what happened to my cheap repops and it was scraping metal/metal when I checked it 6mos. after install.
You can do roller spring perches from John at ORP also if you want a better ride and suspension response. I'd pop for those whenever you change the front springs.
This is a good starter article that explains the mustang suspension/steering and mentions the upgrades that are worth doing:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Jon
#3
I would get it up on jack stands and find out which pieces are in disrepair and if you are on a budget, start by address the parts that are worn and giving you the problem, unless everything is shot, then it only makes sense to do everything all at once.
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