See if your local parts stores carry MOOG or McQuay Norris first, my local O'Reillys got MOOG tie rods/sleeves next day so I saved shipping on those. I made the mistake of buying one of the all in one kits from MU and the repops are cheap. Spend a little more and get quality standard UCA from John at ORP,
he deburrs the shafts, sets them and welds on tabs so the shaft nuts can't unscrew.
While you have the UCA out, do the Shelby/Arning 1" drop,
it will improve your alignment ability, put your tires flatter with modern tires vs. the '60's bias ply and give you better response/steering and it only lowers the front ~1/2" when done. Be sure to print the Shelby specs and have the car aligned to those and not the stock specs. http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/
You can get MOOG LCA arms from him or for $55ea. from Virginia Classic Mustang
I'd suggest having the LCA bushing tack welded in a couple spots so it can't slide in it mount. This is what happened to my cheap repops and it was scraping metal/metal when I checked it 6mos. after install.
You can do roller spring perches from John at ORP also if you want a better ride and suspension response. I'd pop for those whenever you change the front springs.
This is a good starter article that explains the mustang suspension/steering and mentions the upgrades that are worth doing:
"If it isn't broke I haven't fixed it yet" - Jon
'67 Coupe 289>333, AOD, CandyApple Red/red dlx interior, fox seats, 9" 3.50.
'09 Warriors in Pink w/glass roof - wife's Mustang