Torque Restorations 73 Convertible Build Thread
11-16-2011, 10:40 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10
Torque Restorations 73 Convertible Build Thread
Hey everybody. My name is Dave Humphrey and I am one of the co-owners of Torque Restorations. We just started a new restoration project, new to the forums, and thought we would share everything to contribute to the forum.
Car is a 1973 Convertible with a straight six and automatic. It has been owned for a number of years by our customer who is looking to have a driver quality restoration done.
The car, like most Mustangs, is pretty rusty. Rear end is completely rotten and has had the driver's quarter replaced at some point. Old repair done properly. Here's what's on the list for replacement:
Passenger's side quarter, passenger's side outer wheel house, rear tail light panel, trunk drop offs, hood, and both front fenders. Here's some pictures of the progress so far. Would love to hear everyone's opinion and if you have any questions on anything you see happening, shoot us a message.
First and foremost was the rear tail panel. This is the condition it was in after removal.
Another view after removal:
Drop off, not much left there:
All cleaned up, and the rot is gone:
Mocking up the quarter panel. It was a Taiwanese panel but was fade fairly well with crisp body lines, but the stamping was way off and needing adjustment:
New tail panel and quarter being mocked up together:
Now that we have the quarter and tail fitting together properly, it's time to tackle the outer wheelhouse and drop down replacement to get it ready to be welded in. Thanks for looking everyone.
Car is a 1973 Convertible with a straight six and automatic. It has been owned for a number of years by our customer who is looking to have a driver quality restoration done.
The car, like most Mustangs, is pretty rusty. Rear end is completely rotten and has had the driver's quarter replaced at some point. Old repair done properly. Here's what's on the list for replacement:
Passenger's side quarter, passenger's side outer wheel house, rear tail light panel, trunk drop offs, hood, and both front fenders. Here's some pictures of the progress so far. Would love to hear everyone's opinion and if you have any questions on anything you see happening, shoot us a message.
First and foremost was the rear tail panel. This is the condition it was in after removal.
Another view after removal:
Drop off, not much left there:
All cleaned up, and the rot is gone:
Mocking up the quarter panel. It was a Taiwanese panel but was fade fairly well with crisp body lines, but the stamping was way off and needing adjustment:
New tail panel and quarter being mocked up together:
Now that we have the quarter and tail fitting together properly, it's time to tackle the outer wheelhouse and drop down replacement to get it ready to be welded in. Thanks for looking everyone.
11-16-2011, 10:47 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10
Should point out in the pictures, the rear of the quarter was hanging up on the bottom of the tail panel and keeping it from sitting flush. That was one of the problems with the panel apart from some bad stamping attaching it to the rocker that needed cut at the corners, dollied, and rewelded in the corners.
11-21-2011, 03:26 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 8,162
I would talk them in to led tail lights they are a lot brighter then the stock ones.The best place to get them is http://www.mustangproject.com/ And if he wants anything billet for it http://www.eddiemotorsports.com/ has some nice stuff.
11-21-2011, 02:04 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10
Definitely consider yourself fortunate if you live in an area that doesn't use road salt. It's amazing how many preventative measures can be taken to stave off the rust that don't seem to make much of a difference. Every car we do, we install sacrificial zinc anodes to have the corrosion attack those instead of the body.
For the time being, I believe that car is going to be remaining the I6. As I said, this is going to be a driver restoration. The next car on the block will be a 71 TA Charger.
We have removed the outer wheel house, which I must say, is unlike any I have ever done before. Pictures of that work coming soon. Thanks for the input everyone.
For the time being, I believe that car is going to be remaining the I6. As I said, this is going to be a driver restoration. The next car on the block will be a 71 TA Charger.
We have removed the outer wheel house, which I must say, is unlike any I have ever done before. Pictures of that work coming soon. Thanks for the input everyone.
11-21-2011, 05:34 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: PA
Posts: 2,243
Please enlighten us as to what your talking about with these sacrificial zinc anodes???? Please post pics of what they are as well and how you attach them.
Lynn
11-21-2011, 10:45 PM
#9
I never thought of doing zinc great idea any good info showing how well it works. I have used zinc for washers depending on what im attaching to but never zinc to the body. where and how do you install these if you dont mind sharing the info.
11-23-2011, 12:11 AM
#10
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10
I wouldn't have thought that there would be so much interest on sacrificial anodes, but here we go:
Generally, a sacrificial anode is used whenever steel comes into contact with water constantly or occasionally. All water heaters have a sacrificial zinc anode in it to prevent the water from immediately attacking the steel tank. So, if you put a new zinc anode into your water heater every 3 years, you can get about 25 years worth of life out of any water heater. The only difference on warranties for water heaters are the number of anodes, or the size of them. 10 year ones have two... But anyways, lets get away from the plumbing.
As someone mentioned, boats use them to keep the water from attacking the hull. Navy uses them on seawalls that are submerged to keep them from being corroded.
They work by allowing the corrosion to attack them instead of the steel. They are effective until the anode is depleted, then the corrosion will attack the body. You can use them on all four corners of the car, behind the front wheels, in front of the back wheels, one on a front crossmember, and one near the tank in the rear. They sell kits that include running very low currents through the anodes, but it is really not necessary.
Generally, a sacrificial anode is used whenever steel comes into contact with water constantly or occasionally. All water heaters have a sacrificial zinc anode in it to prevent the water from immediately attacking the steel tank. So, if you put a new zinc anode into your water heater every 3 years, you can get about 25 years worth of life out of any water heater. The only difference on warranties for water heaters are the number of anodes, or the size of them. 10 year ones have two... But anyways, lets get away from the plumbing.
As someone mentioned, boats use them to keep the water from attacking the hull. Navy uses them on seawalls that are submerged to keep them from being corroded.
They work by allowing the corrosion to attack them instead of the steel. They are effective until the anode is depleted, then the corrosion will attack the body. You can use them on all four corners of the car, behind the front wheels, in front of the back wheels, one on a front crossmember, and one near the tank in the rear. They sell kits that include running very low currents through the anodes, but it is really not necessary.