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Back with a "New" project, 1966 Coupe

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Old 02-26-2013, 10:23 PM   #1
Oak
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Default Back with a "New" project, 1966 Coupe

Well I just sold the fastback so i scooped up this prize, when I found the fastback I was looking for a coupe, now I have one lol.

She is a 1966 T code Coupe born and raised in California, with very little rust, Passenger side floor needs help and a bit on the drip rail, other than that She is really clean. The best part is she is someones project......who "Lost interest"......My favorite kind, lol.

So she has been stripped of her stock suspension and replaced with all TCI (total cost involved) suspension. Independent front with coil overs and a rack and pinion. The rear is a full torque arm set up with a Ford nine inch and 31 spline axles. To top it all of there are 12 inch wil wood brakes.

The suspension cost 9k new...not including installation. Plans include a 600 HP motor and a six speed.

Also included was a fuel injected 5.0 and transmission, a 32 valve lincoln V8, both with computers and harnesses, and a 1988 5.0 Short block

All for............................................... ..........................6200 bucks!!

Here she is now and she will probably stay that way because of the truck project.......I simply could not let this deal go

Click the image to open in full size.
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Three motors and one engine stand
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Rear suspension, torque arm
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Front suspension
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Big brakes
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May be a while for updates to this thread because of the truck build
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...ld-thread.html

Stay tuned, Ryan
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:20 AM   #2
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Nice stance on it already.
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:06 PM   #3
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Thanks, the rear end is pretty close to where it will stay, just have to finesse some 315/35/17 in there
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
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Wow, that was a good deal! The T code is the perfect candidate for that kind of project and most of its already done, nice. I would build a car for ultimate street car or good guys cone racing with it, really edgy with short gears etc..
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:09 PM   #5
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Default 315/35/17

And here are some pics of us trying to stuff a ten inch wheel with a 315/35/17. It will work but I will have to modify the wheel wells (outside) and I want it to look as stock as possible. Mike the fabricator who has done a lot of fab work on the truck is coming over tomorrow to look at the set up and see what we can do. Also need to replace a section of floor......and we are going take out the seat pans, shorten them an inch or two and move them back 2 inches. Mike will also be putting in a street car friendly roll cage.

Here are some pics

The 11 inch wheel, just sticks out too much
Click the image to open in full size.

17 inch does fill that hole pretty good tho
Click the image to open in full size.

Here are some pics of the 315/35/17 tire on an FR500 ten inch rim. Note that the car is not sitting all the way down, this is as far as we could go without cutting the inside of the fender and or flaring it.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I know that a lot of guys on here are doing mustangs, any and all suggestions are welcome, ref flares, not flaring, flaring etc. As well as wheel and tire combos that you were able to make work

and for info my 9 inch is just over 51 inches so it has been shortened and the inside of the well has been widened 2 inches.

I would like to keep everything tucked inside and have it ride as low as possible
not tucked in the pics above. Looks like I may have to go a 9.5 inch rim with a 285/40/17 or even better would be a 295/30/17 but that is pretty short side wall


Stay tuned, Ryan
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:28 PM   #6
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Could you not get a different springs for the rear to cause it to sit higher?
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Old 03-15-2013, 07:40 AM   #7
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It is an adjustable system in the rear, my goal is to leave it as low as possible with the biggest tire, I am trying to avoid the wheel well from being higher than the top of the tire. It is not absolutely certain that I can leave it as low as it is now, but in short yes I could raise the rear end by changing the coil over mount position it can go up four more spots.
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:58 PM   #8
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I am planning on a mini tub here shortly. I just ordered the kit from Detroit speed. I want to run a 315 in the rear also and weighing out my suspension options currently. Were actually does the 315 start to rub in the rear on your setup? The detroit speed kit comes with a offset rear frame section that has to be welded in that will keep the tire from rubbing.Please keep the pics coming also. Thanks
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #9
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O spoke to the guys at Detroit today, I was going to shorten my axle even more but....too little to late my panhard mount, and shock mounts are too far out (not my choosing) so I am gonna go out (flares) instead of in, like it should. As it is now the 315/35/17 does not rub inside but the tub has been moved or mini tubbed all the way to the frame rail. And it is CLOSE. I would go with the Detroit kit and go all the way in including their frame mod (very easy for a fabricator/welder). THat way the 315 will fit no problem. Then get your housing size, tire size etc in the end.

I am forced to do it *** backwards because the guy who order/set it up before me already decided on the axle width etc. I dont want to go inboard so I will flare very minimally

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Old 03-21-2013, 02:27 PM   #10
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Can you go down just one tire width and roll the lip on the inside of the fender? Can't fully tell from the pictures but it almost looks like from the last one that might be enough to not flare the fenders.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:47 AM   #11
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Down in tire size, did he just say go DOWN? in Tire size, lol. No I will do what I have to do to get the man tire in there, I want to keep it as close to stock as I can, we will fab a new fender like the ones on Frankenstang,


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Old 03-22-2013, 01:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
Down in tire size, did he just say go DOWN? in Tire size, lol. No I will do what I have to do to get the man tire in there, I want to keep it as close to stock as I can, we will fab a new fender like the ones on Frankenstang,

Oak
:-) I know how you feel. Was just a suggestion. I've got a beat up old S-10 with some wide tires and wish I could get them as wide on my S197 without running into issues. I'm actually thinking I'll need to go down a width on that car with my current setup.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #13
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Sweet looking ride, you got a great deal. Good luck and keep posting pics of your progress.
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Old 03-23-2013, 09:07 AM   #14
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This is what i was referring to in case you havent seen this link before

http://www.jefflilly.com/current-pro...es/flares.html

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Old 03-23-2013, 03:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
This is what i was referring to in case you havent seen this link before

http://www.jefflilly.com/current-pro...es/flares.html

Oak
That looks great. Really captures that racer look of the Mustang track cars from the 70's.
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Old 03-24-2013, 04:06 PM   #16
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Great project and a Currie rearend! You got a steal of a deal considering the suspension and brake components.
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:40 PM   #17
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I did get a god deal, the guy who sold it to me wanted to see it built, and I think he wanted his garage space back, really nice guy and gave me a lot of accessories!!! Good deal aside I will probably end up with 30k into it???? Stay tuned

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Old 03-26-2013, 10:08 PM   #18
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Took the stang to mikes (fab guy) to have some rust repair done and to do a few odds n ends. We put the stang up on some special jack stands, about 3 foot tall. No lift at the shop so this really helps with all that we are doing.

First job at hand is to repair the rust in the passenger side floor, really weird as the only rust is on that spot. Even after we took out the seat risers the rust didn't go underneath the riser?

The reason we are taking out the seat risers is to lower the riser by one inch and scoot them back two inches. Both risers will be treated and coated with POR 15, my motto is is if you have it apart you might as well POR 15 it so that it will NEVER rust again. The entire interior of the coupe will be POR15 before it is covered in sound deadener.

The roll cage kit came in from JEGS so as soon as the floor repair is done we will put that in.

Today I brought a seat and its track to Mike so we could confirm where the seat riser as well as the roll bar will be placed. Going to go with FLO FIT seats.

Here are some pics for your enjoyment

Here is the section we cut out, only surface rust under where the seat riser was
Click the image to open in full size.

Up on the big *** jackstands
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Roll Cage kit from Jegs
Click the image to open in full size.

Seat riser removed and the new floor pan installed
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Seat risers removed and modified (shortened one inch front and back)
Click the image to open in full size.

And the riser back in not tacked but in position, two inches back
Click the image to open in full size.

Next plans hopefully Sat or Sunday I can get in teh inside and the underside of the unibody with a wire wheel. Plans are to POR15 top and bottom after I get the suspension off and sent to powdercoating.

Stay tuned

Ryan
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Last edited by Oak; 03-26-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:39 PM   #19
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Default New toy

Got an new toy yesterday, ordered from JMR engineering

See how many pics it takes before you can guess what it is, I bought it for the truck project but now I am goin wild makin stuff just to make it, lol

Drill a hole in your sheet metal
Click the image to open in full size.

Cut the hole with your new toy "press"
Click the image to open in full size.

Perfect hole cut with new toy
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Click the image to open in full size.

Put "DIE" on top and bottom

Click the image to open in full size.

Pull the trigger "foot pedal actually" until both sides meet
Click the image to open in full size.

TADA
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.


You guessed it Dimple die machine, always wanted one, I will make the radiator cover for the truck with this, I will use in it on the wheel tus on the stang and many more projects.

If you want some done give me a call

All of these sizes

Click the image to open in full size.


Oak
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:31 AM   #20
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That's cool! I use a hardwood stick with a notch cut in it to do dimple flanges. It's extremely imprecise and tiresome, and gives the forearms a heck of a work out.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:31 AM
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