Oak

Well I just sold the fastback so i scooped up this prize, when I found the fastback I was looking for a coupe, now I have one lol.

She is a 1966 T code Coupe born and raised in California, with very little rust, Passenger side floor needs help and a bit on the drip rail, other than that She is really clean. The best part is she is someones project......who "Lost interest"......My favorite kind, lol.

So she has been stripped of her stock suspension and replaced with all TCI (total cost involved) suspension. Independent front with coil overs and a rack and pinion. The rear is a full torque arm set up with a Ford nine inch and 31 spline axles. To top it all of there are 12 inch wil wood brakes.

The suspension cost 9k new...not including installation. Plans include a 600 HP motor and a six speed.

Also included was a fuel injected 5.0 and transmission, a 32 valve lincoln V8, both with computers and harnesses, and a 1988 5.0 Short block


Here she is now and she will probably stay that way because of the truck project.......I simply could not let this deal go





Three motors and one engine stand


Rear suspension, torque arm


Front suspension


Big brakes


May be a while for updates to this thread because of the truck build
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...ld-thread.html

Stay tuned, Ryan

mfergel

Nice stance on it already.

Oak

Thanks, the rear end is pretty close to where it will stay, just have to finesse some 315/35/17 in there

Coupe

Wow, that was a good deal! The T code is the perfect candidate for that kind of project and most of its already done, nice. I would build a car for ultimate street car or good guys cone racing with it, really edgy with short gears etc..

Oak

And here are some pics of us trying to stuff a ten inch wheel with a 315/35/17. It will work but I will have to modify the wheel wells (outside) and I want it to look as stock as possible. Mike the fabricator who has done a lot of fab work on the truck is coming over tomorrow to look at the set up and see what we can do. Also need to replace a section of floor......and we are going take out the seat pans, shorten them an inch or two and move them back 2 inches. Mike will also be putting in a street car friendly roll cage.

Here are some pics

The 11 inch wheel, just sticks out too much


17 inch does fill that hole pretty good tho


Here are some pics of the 315/35/17 tire on an FR500 ten inch rim. Note that the car is not sitting all the way down, this is as far as we could go without cutting the inside of the fender and or flaring it.





I know that a lot of guys on here are doing mustangs, any and all suggestions are welcome, ref flares, not flaring, flaring etc. As well as wheel and tire combos that you were able to make work

and for info my 9 inch is just over 51 inches so it has been shortened and the inside of the well has been widened 2 inches.

I would like to keep everything tucked inside and have it ride as low as possible
not tucked in the pics above. Looks like I may have to go a 9.5 inch rim with a 285/40/17 or even better would be a 295/30/17 but that is pretty short side wall


Stay tuned, Ryan

1slow67

Could you not get a different springs for the rear to cause it to sit higher?

Oak

It is an adjustable system in the rear, my goal is to leave it as low as possible with the biggest tire, I am trying to avoid the wheel well from being higher than the top of the tire. It is not absolutely certain that I can leave it as low as it is now, but in short yes I could raise the rear end by changing the coil over mount position it can go up four more spots.
Oak

65wildstang

I am planning on a mini tub here shortly. I just ordered the kit from Detroit speed. I want to run a 315 in the rear also and weighing out my suspension options currently. Were actually does the 315 start to rub in the rear on your setup? The detroit speed kit comes with a offset rear frame section that has to be welded in that will keep the tire from rubbing.Please keep the pics coming also. Thanks

Oak

O spoke to the guys at Detroit today, I was going to shorten my axle even more but....too little to late my panhard mount, and shock mounts are too far out (not my choosing) so I am gonna go out (flares) instead of in, like it should. As it is now the 315/35/17 does not rub inside but the tub has been moved or mini tubbed all the way to the frame rail. And it is CLOSE. I would go with the Detroit kit and go all the way in including their frame mod (very easy for a fabricator/welder). THat way the 315 will fit no problem. Then get your housing size, tire size etc in the end.

I am forced to do it *** backwards because the guy who order/set it up before me already decided on the axle width etc. I dont want to go inboard so I will flare very minimally

Oak

mfergel

Can you go down just one tire width and roll the lip on the inside of the fender? Can't fully tell from the pictures but it almost looks like from the last one that might be enough to not flare the fenders.