Distributor help
10-13-2016, 03:43 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Washington
Posts: 9
Distributor help
Hello,
My son and I pulled off the MSM distributor on my 67 mustang due to it losing power. We sent it back to Msm and they replaced the module and the rotor. After getting it back we are having trouble getting it timed. The 289 has a 351 cam in it however after getting top dead center are getting the wires in the correct firing order we have had no luck, it sounds like only a couple cylinders are firing. We marked the dizzy, and the side to get a spot of reference to get it back to a similar place. I guess after repairing the distributor that mark went away. However it sounds like we should have marked where the rotor was pointing as well?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
My son and I pulled off the MSM distributor on my 67 mustang due to it losing power. We sent it back to Msm and they replaced the module and the rotor. After getting it back we are having trouble getting it timed. The 289 has a 351 cam in it however after getting top dead center are getting the wires in the correct firing order we have had no luck, it sounds like only a couple cylinders are firing. We marked the dizzy, and the side to get a spot of reference to get it back to a similar place. I guess after repairing the distributor that mark went away. However it sounds like we should have marked where the rotor was pointing as well?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
10-13-2016, 07:51 PM
#2
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hills of California
Posts: 5,208
its 180 degrees out.
There are two top dead centers (TDC) one for compression which we want and one for exhaust.
If you are at exhaust TDC then the exhaust valve will be open as it fires the spark.
two methods to solve this
1) (easy and dumb) set the timing mark on the balancer to TDC 0 deg set the rotor to plug 1 (front passenger side plug) crank it over does it start?
If no rotate back to TDC is the rotor back under plug wire one? IF yes rotate the engine one revolution with a ratchet until you are back to TDC this time the rotor should be 180 deg away from plug one...Pull the dizzy out and rotate the rotor back to plug 1 and try again.
If the answer is NO (the rotor is not under plug one and the timing mark is on 0 then the rotor should be 180 deg away from plug one just pull the dizzy and rotate it back to plug one and try again (guessing game but the odds are 50/50)
2) (Smart and difficult method) pull plug one and rotate the engine over with a ratchet on the damper wheel 15/16th nut have someone place a finger over the plug hole and rotate the engine with the ratchet...If you are appraching TDC compression (which we want) you will feel air run past your finger as you rotate over the engine. If you are feeling air escape and you get to TDC then you should be good to go...set the dizzy rotor to plug wire 1. If you are NOT feeling air escape then keep rotating past TDC and as TDC approaches again this time you should feel the air try to escape past your fining...no air pressure indicates the exhaust valve is open...NOT what we want.
There are two top dead centers (TDC) one for compression which we want and one for exhaust.
If you are at exhaust TDC then the exhaust valve will be open as it fires the spark.
two methods to solve this
1) (easy and dumb) set the timing mark on the balancer to TDC 0 deg set the rotor to plug 1 (front passenger side plug) crank it over does it start?
If no rotate back to TDC is the rotor back under plug wire one? IF yes rotate the engine one revolution with a ratchet until you are back to TDC this time the rotor should be 180 deg away from plug one...Pull the dizzy out and rotate the rotor back to plug 1 and try again.
If the answer is NO (the rotor is not under plug one and the timing mark is on 0 then the rotor should be 180 deg away from plug one just pull the dizzy and rotate it back to plug one and try again (guessing game but the odds are 50/50)
2) (Smart and difficult method) pull plug one and rotate the engine over with a ratchet on the damper wheel 15/16th nut have someone place a finger over the plug hole and rotate the engine with the ratchet...If you are appraching TDC compression (which we want) you will feel air run past your finger as you rotate over the engine. If you are feeling air escape and you get to TDC then you should be good to go...set the dizzy rotor to plug wire 1. If you are NOT feeling air escape then keep rotating past TDC and as TDC approaches again this time you should feel the air try to escape past your fining...no air pressure indicates the exhaust valve is open...NOT what we want.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post