Anybody replaced motor mounts before.
#2
RE: Anybody replaced motor mounts before.
If you have an engine hoist, you can pick up on the motor, otherwise, a block of wood on a floor jack can raise the engine. It will probably be easier to do one side at a time.
#3
RE: Anybody replaced motor mounts before.
You will have to jack up the engine. First, loosen the trani mount. Don't remove the nuts all the way. This will allow the trani some play when jacking the engine. Next, loosen the motor mount to chassis mount bolt that runs horizontally through the mount, but dont try and pull the bolts yet. It is typically difficult with the weight of the engine resting on the mounts. I also loosen the block bolts before lifting the engine as well. Sometimes you have to use some muscle and it is easier if the engin is stable in the mounts.
Then get your jack under the oilpan sump. Use a block of wood so you don't damage pan. Jack the engine just til it barely starts to lift. You should be then able to remove the horizontal bolt easily. I agree with the one post that it is better to do one at a time because you then are keeping the motor aligned with the chassis. Once you have removed the bolt, jact the engin up and remove the block bolt. This is easier from under the car with a ratchet extension. USE A JACK STAND BEFORE GETTING UNDER THE CAR.
NOTE, When you are jacking, pay attention to the clearance between the tranny and fire wall. You can crush your metal vaccum line etc. if you raise to far. Then finnagel the mount out and replace. Lower mount onto chassis and insert bolt. When lowering, eyeball the bolt holes sso they line up. May have to raise or lower a lil to get it to slip in.
Repeat on the other side. Don't forget to retighten the trani mount when you are done. Not really that difficult, just takes a little patience to get the mounts in and out.
Then get your jack under the oilpan sump. Use a block of wood so you don't damage pan. Jack the engine just til it barely starts to lift. You should be then able to remove the horizontal bolt easily. I agree with the one post that it is better to do one at a time because you then are keeping the motor aligned with the chassis. Once you have removed the bolt, jact the engin up and remove the block bolt. This is easier from under the car with a ratchet extension. USE A JACK STAND BEFORE GETTING UNDER THE CAR.
NOTE, When you are jacking, pay attention to the clearance between the tranny and fire wall. You can crush your metal vaccum line etc. if you raise to far. Then finnagel the mount out and replace. Lower mount onto chassis and insert bolt. When lowering, eyeball the bolt holes sso they line up. May have to raise or lower a lil to get it to slip in.
Repeat on the other side. Don't forget to retighten the trani mount when you are done. Not really that difficult, just takes a little patience to get the mounts in and out.
#4
RE: Anybody replaced motor mounts before.
I know this is an old post but I dida search before asking a question and found my answer (like I do mostly before asking).
I plan on doing this tomorrow. The above info confirmed what I thought that could be done. I remember helping a friend about 15 years ago rebuild a mustang II (we took the 302 out and put in a nicely rebuilt 289) and we forgot the engine mounts (luckily the engine didn't spin, he just turned it over for about 10-20 seconds and it was vibrating bad, do they spin?) after everything was set up and I thought that we jacked up the motor to put them in. I pray that it only takes me two hours but we will see.
Is there anything else I need to worry about? Any recommendations from the pro's out there? Rubber, solid or polyurethane? I drive almost every day until it starts to get really cold in North Carolina. I don’t race but I do get up on it when I get out onto a highway or come up on a hill or out of a corner. Right now my mounts are both cracked about halfway through, the engine vibrates bad and it’s real real hard to shift from 1st to 2nd when the engine is warm….I’m thinking this can all be cured with some nice new mounts.
Thank you for the help.
I plan on doing this tomorrow. The above info confirmed what I thought that could be done. I remember helping a friend about 15 years ago rebuild a mustang II (we took the 302 out and put in a nicely rebuilt 289) and we forgot the engine mounts (luckily the engine didn't spin, he just turned it over for about 10-20 seconds and it was vibrating bad, do they spin?) after everything was set up and I thought that we jacked up the motor to put them in. I pray that it only takes me two hours but we will see.
Is there anything else I need to worry about? Any recommendations from the pro's out there? Rubber, solid or polyurethane? I drive almost every day until it starts to get really cold in North Carolina. I don’t race but I do get up on it when I get out onto a highway or come up on a hill or out of a corner. Right now my mounts are both cracked about halfway through, the engine vibrates bad and it’s real real hard to shift from 1st to 2nd when the engine is warm….I’m thinking this can all be cured with some nice new mounts.
Thank you for the help.
#5
RE: Anybody replaced motor mounts before.
I kept tearing the regular mounts that I got from where ever, didn't matter. I got a set of Lakewoods Muscle Mounts, which are harder than regular but not as hard as urethane mounts. They haven't torn yet even after drag racing several times.
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