Clutch Chatter...
#1
Clutch Chatter...
Mine is a '65 with a 289 4-spd. After a few mile run on the highway at 80 mph, upon exiting and starting from a dead stop the clutch chatters so badly I think the windshield will crack! anyone else experience this problem?
#4
RE: Clutch Chatter...
Sounds like it's that easy but my brother's '66 was doing the same thing, he replaced the clutch with a Centerforce dual friction and it still chatters. Lets dig a little deeper shall we? thanks for the help!!!!
[IMG]local://upfiles/41109/B43BADCF5D0349EBB476A0E2C418479A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/41109/B43BADCF5D0349EBB476A0E2C418479A.jpg[/IMG]
#5
RE: Clutch Chatter...
I'd suggest a two pronged attack:
1). Start by inspecting the transmission and engine mounts. If they are old and plyable the whole thing moves around, and will cause serious clutch chatter. If this is the case I'd suggest a quality set of mounts for the engine and transmission. You can make a cable strap, and attach it from the drivers side front of the block, to the frame rail at the sway bar mount, to help control engine movement as a test for your engine mounts.
2). Check the pressure plate and flywheel for heat checking, lateral runout, and warpage. If there are any indications of this, replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced. Seing as you aren't going to back in there for a very long time, I'd suggest installing a new pilot bearing and replacing the T.O. bearing as well. While in there check for crankshaft lateral movement, as well as vertical movement, to make sure you don't have an issue with thrust bearings or main bearing wear.
While the transmission is out, check your input shaft splines to make sure there is no wear that will cause the friction disc to stick in one spot on the input shaft, then use a real light swipe of anti sieze compound on the splines of the friction disc. This swipe needs to completely cover the splines of the friction disc hub, and should be super light (almost like the glaze of paste wax when applied to the body.
Also if you are doing the clutch, I highly suggest replacing the all the clutch linkage bushings, and seals on the "Z-bar" ends, and use a little anti sieze on these as well.
Do it right once, and forget it for a long time!
Good luck,
1). Start by inspecting the transmission and engine mounts. If they are old and plyable the whole thing moves around, and will cause serious clutch chatter. If this is the case I'd suggest a quality set of mounts for the engine and transmission. You can make a cable strap, and attach it from the drivers side front of the block, to the frame rail at the sway bar mount, to help control engine movement as a test for your engine mounts.
2). Check the pressure plate and flywheel for heat checking, lateral runout, and warpage. If there are any indications of this, replace the clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced. Seing as you aren't going to back in there for a very long time, I'd suggest installing a new pilot bearing and replacing the T.O. bearing as well. While in there check for crankshaft lateral movement, as well as vertical movement, to make sure you don't have an issue with thrust bearings or main bearing wear.
While the transmission is out, check your input shaft splines to make sure there is no wear that will cause the friction disc to stick in one spot on the input shaft, then use a real light swipe of anti sieze compound on the splines of the friction disc. This swipe needs to completely cover the splines of the friction disc hub, and should be super light (almost like the glaze of paste wax when applied to the body.
Also if you are doing the clutch, I highly suggest replacing the all the clutch linkage bushings, and seals on the "Z-bar" ends, and use a little anti sieze on these as well.
Do it right once, and forget it for a long time!
Good luck,
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