67Sally

I still say go to discs (but I've never driven a car that doesn't have ABS). Why spend money working on the drums when, if you're like most others, are going to eventually switch over to discs?

mustanglover66

you diffently have a problem either bad hoses, master cylinder, or wheel cylinders. It should not take that much to stop the car. A qick easy check would be to hold the brake with one foot and press the gas petal with the other the brakes should stop the car from moving, if they will not hold the car their is a problem. I would do the conversion no since doing a job twice. once to rebuild drum and then later convert. When i converted mine it was like night and day as for preformance. I also did the ssbc conversion and the best price I found was at VAMustang.

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.co...hop/search.asp

Gun Jam

Yeah it sounds like something is out of whack, the shoes could be badly glazed and probably cracked.

If you look at the shoes they should have a dull color and be rough to the touch with no cracks.

I bet you can see your reflection in your current pads

I am very happy with my disc conversion, it stops straight and smooth, not to mention quick probably close to 600 - 700 braking horsepower @ 40 mph or 40-0 in 15 yards

Gun

ideal_mustangs

I think the best thing about my discs are that they always stop straight. If you get on drums really hard they are most likely going to pull some. Drums aren't horrible though. I've got huge manual drums on my truck and it stops great. I drive it everyday.

coda618

I would redo the drums and worry about a swap later. Even if you do the swap, you will still need to do the rears and realistically, the brake lines and hoses should be changes as well. A well maintained drum brake system is sufficient for reasonable daily driving. I have had three mustangs and all with drums and non-power. I do not disagree that a conversion will not improve braking, but all the support items in the braking system must be servied as well. Over time, brake fluid can absorb water, yes, even though it is a closed system. Consequently, if the fluid has not been fully purged periodically, water in the fluid can reduce efficiency and cause wear.

This is a 40 year old car. The first thing I did on my most recent 67 is do a complete brake job, including all new steel brake lines (you can get them pre bent to exact factory specs from Classis Tube for about $140 for stainless, less for reg steel)

Trust me, if you are going to swap the master and hoses, you will kink or break one of the steel lines anyway, new hoses (46-60 set of 3), wheel cylinders (15-20ea.), shoes (25-35 for fr and rear) hardware kits (25-30 for both fr & rr) adjuster kits (20) Master (40-60) if your drums are in good shape have them cut (under $10 each) or replace (about 40 ea.) Less expensive than a conversion and you may find the braking power sufficient when operating properly.

If you do this brake job correctly you will have a good functioning system which should be sufficient for reasonable (read not racing etc.) driving. Also just another note check your pedal assembly. Make sure the bushing is not worn or the hole is not elongated causing the pedal to bind. Throw a lil white lithium grease on there as well.

Good luck!

68chicagocoupe

wow guys thanks so much for your support. There is no doubt I need a complete brake overhaul, I just need to decide which route to go. I will keep everyone posted....and thanks again for your help.

Twister

about a year ago, a friend and I went to look at a 66 for him. It was a manual drum car. We were driving down the street and I told him to start breaking for the stop sign, and he did not beleive me. it is a fact. MAUEAL BRAKES TAKE LONGER TO STOP!

muggsy

I'm kinda surprised at how many people are telling you to keep the drums. You never said money was an issue. If you have the dough to upgrade to discs, don't even bother fixing the drums. I did a Manual drum to POWER front Disc from SSBC (Stainless Steel Brakes Corp) conversion earlier this summer. All I can say is night and day. This car stops like my 2004 Infiniti. Keep in mind you will need at least 15 inch wheels to support just about any discs. I upgraded from stock 14 inch wheels to 15s and needed a tiny 3/16' spacer up front, cost about 2 bucks and is perfectly safe. It used to be like doing leg presses to stop going down hill with manaul drums before, and I grew up driving 70's cars. The problem is, driving habits have changed based upon the better technology in cars today. People weave in traffic, stop quickly, etc without thinking that the guy behind them might have crap brakes. I always felt like I had to be REAL careful driving my Mustang before, now I can drive it like an idiot like I do in my daily driver car. I went with the slotted rotor power front disc conversion. It meant replacing the brake pedal because the angles are different. The kit came with the new pedal, it looks the same from inside the car. Serioulsly man, the best thousand bucks I've spent on this car, and there have been several thousands to say the least. That's just the way it goes.

ideal_mustangs

I used the 14" Magnums on the Granada Conversion with a small spacer.

jroseman

i went with the stainless steel front disc system. not that hard to do. the drum brakes were fine but as sally said - a safety issue.