oil
08-28-2006, 05:35 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 54
RE: oil
I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles.
Apparently the synthetic has more detergents that help remove all the deposits around seals and gaskets. Once those deposits are removed, potential leak points once blocked by deposits are opened up possibly causing leaks.
I switched over my jeep at 135,000 miles. I'm at 170,000 now with no leaks whatsoever...yet.
Apparently the synthetic has more detergents that help remove all the deposits around seals and gaskets. Once those deposits are removed, potential leak points once blocked by deposits are opened up possibly causing leaks.
I switched over my jeep at 135,000 miles. I'm at 170,000 now with no leaks whatsoever...yet.
08-28-2006, 05:37 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 169
RE: oil
The rotella is a great oil, use in in all my trucks, and the 65. Tried Mobil one in the stang, but even with new gaskets soon had leak problems so I went back to the rotella. HAve one truck with over 750,000 miles and no major component failures. You can find it at most auto parts stores and Wal-Mart and Sams club. I buy it by the 55 gal. drum to get the best price, but I also use 30 gallons a month.
08-28-2006, 05:49 PM
#14
I ♥ Acer
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location:
Posts: 17,565
RE: oil
ORIGINAL: paladin_1888
The rotella is a great oil, use in in all my trucks, and the 65. Tried Mobil one in the stang, but even with new gaskets soon had leak problems so I went back to the rotella. HAve one truck with over 750,000 miles and no major component failures. You can find it at most auto parts stores and Wal-Mart and Sams club. I buy it by the 55 gal. drum to get the best price, but I also use 30 gallons a month.
The rotella is a great oil, use in in all my trucks, and the 65. Tried Mobil one in the stang, but even with new gaskets soon had leak problems so I went back to the rotella. HAve one truck with over 750,000 miles and no major component failures. You can find it at most auto parts stores and Wal-Mart and Sams club. I buy it by the 55 gal. drum to get the best price, but I also use 30 gallons a month.
08-28-2006, 06:01 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,447
RE: oil
I have had great luck with castrol syntecs. I recently switched from mobil one and my Pathfinder runs smoother with the castrol.
As a side note. I have read a considerable amount of talk on this forum regarding the life span of dino based "synthetics" as being inferior to the likes of mobil, redline, etc. Redline and Amsoil are in my opinion are in a league of thier own, but mobil is really no better then then hydrogen infused dinos. Castrol Syntec 5w40 is the only oil that is bmw long life certified and is original equipment in a lot of europeon sports cars. In run that oil in my wifes car 10k with that oil the oil sensor recommends replacing the oil every 13-15k.
I will be using a regular dino until rebuild time and then after break in I will most likly run castrol syntec.
As a side note. I have read a considerable amount of talk on this forum regarding the life span of dino based "synthetics" as being inferior to the likes of mobil, redline, etc. Redline and Amsoil are in my opinion are in a league of thier own, but mobil is really no better then then hydrogen infused dinos. Castrol Syntec 5w40 is the only oil that is bmw long life certified and is original equipment in a lot of europeon sports cars. In run that oil in my wifes car 10k with that oil the oil sensor recommends replacing the oil every 13-15k.
I will be using a regular dino until rebuild time and then after break in I will most likly run castrol syntec.
08-28-2006, 06:45 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 169
RE: oil
A little of everything, I operate under contract to Fed-Ex Ground, the best part of the deal, all those miles are inside a 65 mile radius, little over 3,000 miles a week per truck.also use about 1,800 gallons of fuel a week
08-28-2006, 07:57 PM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: oil
Okay.. let me clarify. new vehicle us anything you want. Mobil 1 is my choice for the cars with ROLLER CAMS, that is my 92 F150, 98 Formula LS1, and my toy that is a stroked Pontiac 400 with a 270-272@.050 mechanical roller cam. The major issue with new oil affects flat tappet cams, such as what all Fords prior to 1985 came with. Roller lifters dont have the same wear problems that a flat cam does. They also dont require a break in period like a flat cam does. You simply oil a roller and stab it in, not so with a flat tappet cam.
Zinc was removed from oils a couple years back. It caused problems with catalytic converters and raised emmisions, so the oil companies removed it. Zinc is in there to combat wear in heavily loaded parts, such as diesel engines and older cars with flat tappet cams have. With no zinc its a matter of time before the lifter eats the cam and you get a flat lobe. A flat lobe means the metal went somewhere since its no longer on the camshaft. The filter will only catch so much of the shavings/fragments, the rest gets run through your bearings.
Now if you run a roller cam and roller rockers in your older car it isnt a problem. A retrofit from a 5.0L cam/lifter setup would be a great idea in a 289 or 302 in the classics. If you continue to run off the shelf oil in your car, and you find it not performing the way it used to, missing, or poping back through the carb, you will probably find a flat lobe or a rocker arm not lifting the valve like it should.
Fair warning on the old cars. Believe it or dont, its not my engine in your car now is it?
Zinc was removed from oils a couple years back. It caused problems with catalytic converters and raised emmisions, so the oil companies removed it. Zinc is in there to combat wear in heavily loaded parts, such as diesel engines and older cars with flat tappet cams have. With no zinc its a matter of time before the lifter eats the cam and you get a flat lobe. A flat lobe means the metal went somewhere since its no longer on the camshaft. The filter will only catch so much of the shavings/fragments, the rest gets run through your bearings.
Now if you run a roller cam and roller rockers in your older car it isnt a problem. A retrofit from a 5.0L cam/lifter setup would be a great idea in a 289 or 302 in the classics. If you continue to run off the shelf oil in your car, and you find it not performing the way it used to, missing, or poping back through the carb, you will probably find a flat lobe or a rocker arm not lifting the valve like it should.
Fair warning on the old cars. Believe it or dont, its not my engine in your car now is it?
08-28-2006, 08:11 PM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: oil
Rotella is one of the oils that still has zinc in it due to the high wear environment of a diesel engine. Do some research on it and see what you find.
I couldnt find the HOTROD article, but it was in the JUNE 06 issue..
This article came out first, because we had alot of cam failures in the last couple years with the Pontiacs. This applies to any engine that isnt roller inside.. I know its a Pontiac site, but its releveant to all of us.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ing_motor_oil/
I couldnt find the HOTROD article, but it was in the JUNE 06 issue..
This article came out first, because we had alot of cam failures in the last couple years with the Pontiacs. This applies to any engine that isnt roller inside.. I know its a Pontiac site, but its releveant to all of us.
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ing_motor_oil/