Charlie1

We went through this discussion last fall, too. Automotive writer up here in Minn says best way to store a classic car or a motorcycle is not to store it...that is, run it for 15 mintues every two to four weeks. Worked for me last year. I also rolled car forward or back a couple of feet with each start and kept boards under tires as Glen suggests. But certainly fill tank and add stabil. Someone reported a bad experience with dryer sheets (lingering odor?), as I recall. Put DCon around the car with an old towel for alternate nest, and maybe a saucer or two of antifreeze, Glen's sweet Texas koolaid, for the critters. And don't give up too quickly on the season, Pammy. I went until Nov 11 last year and had it out by April 15. Mustangs forever.

restomod66

I saw an episode om my classic car that suggested moth ***** in an open container,arm and hammer baking soda, and irish spring soap to deter rodents and a sheet of plastic over concrete to eliminate moisture conductance with cardboard placed under oil pan tranny and rear axle for leak detection.. Also jack up the car and allow suspension and wheels to hang on 4 jack stands. New oil and tranny fliud to preserve vehicle integrity. change radiator fluid to 50/50 mixture and coat cylinders with oil???? Also add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank to prevent condensation build-up!!


Restomod66

MustangPammie

Thanks --- you guys have given me a LOT to think about.

But with so many differing opinions I'm not quite sure what to do

chillininnh

I just watched the show Restomod66 mentioned, the show is on the DIY channel concerning this very topic, the show btw is called Classic Car Restoration, it's great!! Now the host of the show is Steve Magnante who works for Hot Rod magazine. They suggest that if you are storing the car for more than 3 months you should do the following. First you must "pickle" the car by properly handling the fluids. A full tank of gas mixed with a fuel stabilizer is recommended. Make sure you run the car for a short period to ensure the treated gas travels through the entire fuel system. Next is a 50/50 water and anti-freeze mix in the cooling system to lubricate and corrosion protect the cooling system. Also, if you live in a cold climate, it will prevent the block from freezing and cracking. Make sure you change the oil and filter before storage. They recommend a DOT 5 brake fluid to prevent brake system corrosion. A quick spray of WD-40 in the dizzy cap will prevent corrosion of the contacts by condensation as the car sits idle. Always remove the battery when storing your classic. Set a desiccant style moisture absorber in the interior of the car to prevent the musty odor common with storage. A box of baking soda left inside is also a moisture/odor preventative. Take some moth ***** and place them in a plastic container and set them inside the car as an insect deterrent. Also, a couple bars of Irish Spring, placed under the seats in your classic will prevent rodent infestation. Dress the weatherstripping with a rubber conditioner, make sure it is not silicone based (not tire dressing!!). When you close your doors for storage, close only until the first click to prevent compressing the weatherstripping in the door. Crack the windows to ensure good ventilation and prevent weatherstrip compression. Lay a sheet of plastic under the car as a moisture deterrent. Place the car on jack stands and allow the suspension to hang, this helps with spring fatigue and tire flat-spotting. Cover the car with a good car cover that will breathe, never with plastic. There you go, straight from the experts.

72rustang

Best to sift through it all and decide what you think would be best given your particular storage situation. But as you have seen, ask 20 people and you will get 20 differing answers. Sounds like at the least, most say full tank of gas and sta-bil if you aren't going to be driving it and topping off the gas as needed. Maybe start with that much, and decide how much more you want to do. I had completely forgotten about the whole rodent issue... if the car is going to be stored in some sort of detached garage or storage unit, I guess you better do something to discourage mice.

MustangPammie

I park it in a garage with another classic (70's Galaxie convertible) and he owns the garage and the house, so I'll talk to him and ask what he does for the winter (last winter it was being restored).

I could store it with one of the largest classic car financial companies who apparently owns a storage facility nearby, but you can't take it out, once it's there, it's there until you remove it for the spring/summer. I'm checking out all my alternatives but I don't want rodents near it as I have an unnatural fear of them and even typing it is giving me the *******.

THUMPIN455

Pam you wouldnt wanna live here then.. We have so many mice runnin around its tough to find a place to step.. OKay not that bad..

I dont mind the dryer sheet aroma, I do mind the mice been in there havin a lewd party odor very much.

This year I have 3 cars that wont go anywhere during the winter that actually run. Two gotta sleep outside, just dont have the room for them with all the boats..lol. They get started and driven around the yard once a month, up to operating temp. They wont see the road because the salt up here is laid on pretty thick.

First snow shoud be around October, I wouldnt doubt the first week. Last snow is often Last week of April, I think I like Global Warming, it will give me more time to be outside without cold weatehr survival gear..

Todd1919

What about fogging the engine?? I do this with my boat when I winterize it for the year. 2000 Larson with an in/out drive running a 305 chev. Every boat dealership will tell you when you winterize: you should fog the engine. This consistest of either pulling the spark plugs and spraying oil onto the cylinders, or running the engine and spraying a fogging solution straight into the carb for about 20 seconds, then shut engine off and do not run again untill the spring. This procedure is done to protect internal parts.
I was planning on doing this with my car as well, since this is the first winter that I will have owned it.

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Soaring

Fogging is a good idea if you don't plan to start the engine at all while it is stored. However, the best lubrication for an engine is to start it and let it run until it reaches operating temp to lube all of the moving parts. Oh, one other thing. DO NOT set the emergency brake while it is stored. I screwed up and did that one time with another car, only to come back to stuck brake shoes. They will weld themselves to the drum.

Fastback Guy

I saw a special on car storage once and the car that they featured was overseas somewhere. Anyway, the owner contacted Ford and they suggested a full tank of gas with stable (sp?) and if at all possible, drive the car 20 feet every 45 days to prevent damage. I don't really know. Just passing that along. Good Luck!!!!!!