gregp1962

I had the transmission rebuilt a little over a year ago and have only put a few thousand miles on it since then. A few weeks ago, it took a second or two to engage when it was cold. I assumed it was low on fluid. But, I checked it and it had plenty of fluid.

Now, it won't engage at all. What is the likely cause of this?

THUMPIN455

Assuming its a C4 behind a 289. Here is a trouble shooting guide. If you dont understand what the terms mean, just ask. If it was rebuilt a year ago, and you havent been racing it in a 10 second car, I would be suspicious of the rebuilders work. That isnt long enough for seals to harden and crack. But if it was run out of fluid at one time, by a spouse or other person in the household, then filled later, if could be a burned forward clutch and not the rebuilders fault.

I would suspect a cut seal if it doesnt have a burned clutch or a band not applying.

Have you tried manual low and reverse? They get the highest line pressure and therefore the best engagement of the clutch packs.

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65bluestang

my 65 does the same thing, i have spoke to others in the mustang club and they all seem to have had that problem. i just let it warm up for a second and it works great. thats what they all said also.

DGA

You are kind of stingy about the details such as transmission type but if I read you correctly it sounds like it is a bit low on fluid.

I would add about a pint of fluid and see if that helps. If the vehicle is parked on an incline first try it on level ground. But the fact that you suggest that the problem first presented as a delayed engagement is an indication of low fluid.

If fluid is low then the next question is WHY? There is no usage of fluid in a good automatic. It has to leak. Either on the ground or thru the vacuum can if so equiped.

Have you checked for signs of leaks?

If not a fluid leak the next step is to drom the pan and see whatever is there to see. I/e clogged screen, metal in pan, water, etc, etc etc

THUMPIN455

You do have it warm on level ground and idling in "PARK" when checking the trans fluid level right? If not then it wasnt an accurate check.. DGA has some good advice there...

Especially the part about the vacuum modulator failing and the trans fluid being sucked through it into the engine. It happens more often than people realize. The way to check for that is to pull the line from both modulator and intake/carb connection and see if there is anything red and oily in it. There shouldnt be, if there is replace the modulator..