Soaring

Here is a good stock rebuilding kit that has good components. As far as switcfhing from the 6 banger to the V8, we have a lot of information about that in the FAQ section above. Basically, you will need to upgrade the suspension, transmission and rear end along with adding the V8. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maste...spagenameZWDVW

THUMPIN455

Welcome to the Mustang Forums.. there is some good info here if you search and use the FAQ at the top..

First tear it down and keep track of all the parts since there are many small pieces you will be needing to put it back together.
Or take it to a machine shop and have them tear it apart and check the block, heads and crank for cracks and wear.

Often you need to get .030 over pistons since it will more than likely need bored.
Also the crank will usually clean up between .010 and .030 undersize.
Have the rods resized with ARP bolts.
Have the entire reciprocating assembly balanced. You will need to give them the crank, rods, pistons, flexplate/flywheel, and harmonic balancer to get it balanced.

I highly recomend new valves, new guides, new valve springs, and possibly new seats. After all this plus a valve job you can often buy a set of aluminum Edelbrock heads or something similar that is a bolt on and its done type deal. There are iron heads too at a lower price, so do some looking around and see whats out there.

Once you know what the block will clean up at, how far under the crank is and if all your rods are good, then you can order the engine kit. if your block is already .030 over you will often need a .040 or .060 piston for it. Same with the crank. The 351C I did earlier this year needed to go .030 over and the crank ended up being ground .030 under as well. So now I have a full set of bearings that are .010 for it because I ordered them and then found out the original crank was cracked.

Cast pistons are good for a daily driver. I have a set of cast pistons in my GTO's 455. They have been in there for along time and it runs great. If you arent going to be racing it or using nitrous oxide, cast is the way to go.

Hypereutectic pistons have more silicon in them to make them harder, they are a budget alternative to a forged piston and I have seen some quality issues with the VERY cheap ones.

Forged pistons are the strongest and they expand the most. That means they have the most clearance in the bore and less ring control, they will tend to burn a bit of oil and can be noisy on cold start up. I have Forged pistons in most of my engines because I beat on them quite a bit. i tend to go racing often..

A mild camshaft will work well, if you want a driver with nice manners we can help you pick one. if you want a bit more power and go with the aftermarket heads, then you can use a bit more cam. It all depends on what you want from the engine, what heads you have, and a few other factors like auto or manual trans as to what cam you should get.

Here is a link to summits rebuild kits. I have used these before, they are in both of my Clevelands and also in 3 of the 4 Pontiac engines I have sitting in my cars around here. Some parts are cheaper through Summit or Jegs.com than through your local parts store, some are just easier to get at the local place and cost about the same.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294924702

Brandontyler65

if anything i would port the exhaust on the heads they need it

quinchem

Thanx!! This is the kind of advice I was looking for. My friend used a "Enginetech" rebuild kit off ebay. Ever hear of them? They seem to have quite a few ads on ebay. It even comes with a new cam! I was going to tear it down myself, send the block to be boiled and checked, bored too. I'll have them check the crank also. He recomended I bring them the connecting rods too. I'll take the heads off but probably have them done with stainless valves. What about rings? Moly? I'll spend the extra to do it right. Pardon my ignorance but what are ARP bolts?
Thanx again!

quinchem

Sweet!!! thanx, this is the same one my friend used and recomended to me!

THUMPIN455

ARP sells fasteners that are high grade and are often used in race applications. They are much better than the stock pieces that have been heat cycled and stressed already. Its cheap insurance to use good fasteners in your build, that way you know the bolts wont be the part breaking.

Moly rings are a good idea, hard chrome will not seat right and will burn oil. non moly rings will wear the cylinder walls faster and lose seal at a faster rate also. fyi.. used to make piston rings for Perfect Circle division of Dana Corp.. Moly is good stuff.

get it balanced, it will run much better and wont shake your fillings out while its running. It will also add to the longevity of the engine.

quinchem

Is there an aftermarked kit I can get to do it all at once? Or did you piece it together yourself. I can get the steering parts, tranny and rear end from the same friend... we stripped a 66 and saved EVERYTHING. Most of it was pretty well worn. As far ast the rear suspension, what do you do? Add a leaf?I was going to do the conversion to disk at some point anyway, again any suggestions? Thanx

6mustang6

a 66 and a 68 are pretty different underneath. Things may not fit or work.

mustanglover66

get the whole rearend from your friend and as mush of the front that is useable on the front you will need everything from the pitman arm to the spindles. You can buy all of thouse parts new with the exception of spindles. As for disc coversion I did the SSBC conversion which was $825 from VaMustang others on here like the granda swap and can expand on that and where to get parts.

Colorado_Mustang

I've had good luck with Master Power Brakes for brake kits...and they give you the choice of manual or power with discs.

Summit and Jegs have great customer service that can make sure you get what you need. I'll second getting a fastener kit for an engine rebuild. I used the ARP kit for a 302 and it is so much nicer when you're going back together.