baterry relocation...
#3
RE: baterry relocation...
Easy.
The hardest part is routing the positive wire and making sure it won't get damaged.
The hardest part is routing the positive wire and making sure it won't get damaged.
ORIGINAL: ADRIAN1
how hard is it to relocate your battery to the trunk?... i really want/need to do it but dont know how. please help.
how hard is it to relocate your battery to the trunk?... i really want/need to do it but dont know how. please help.
#5
RE: baterry relocation...
ADRIAN1, explain to me why you want/need so badly to relocate your battery to the trunk. And arent you the member that got into a wreck a few days back on the freeway?, wouldnt that be your number one priority.
#6
RE: baterry relocation...
Unless you are into racing, and are concerned about the few extra pounds up front, relocating the battery to the trunk will not benefit you much. At any rate, if you insist, here is a good article about how to do it.
http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/m...elocation.html
http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/m...elocation.html
#7
RE: baterry relocation...
ORIGINAL: Hornblower
Unless you are into racing, and are concerned about the few extra pounds up front, relocating the battery to the trunk will not benefit you much. At any rate, if you insist, here is a good article about how to do it.
http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/m...elocation.html
Unless you are into racing, and are concerned about the few extra pounds up front, relocating the battery to the trunk will not benefit you much. At any rate, if you insist, here is a good article about how to do it.
http://www.lunaticfringe.org/vwfox/m...elocation.html
I plan on upgrading so that I have a battery backup for an alarm system and radio, while still being able to kill the battery.
#8
RE: baterry relocation...
I like your thinking restomod67. Would you happen to have any pictures of your kill switch setup? You could pm me the pictures and details if you wanted. I'd appreciate it. And no i'm not looking at stealing your car!
#9
RE: baterry relocation...
No pics, I have everything apart now for a restoration. I can describe it a little to you. I ran the battery cable along the passenger side, obviously. In the trunk since there is the quarter panel drop off, you have a lot of room there to mount something, if there was something there to mount to. So I jigsawed a piece of wood (I think 1/2 thick) to cover up the hole and run on top of the trunk floor. Used 4 bolts to hold it in going thru the floor.
The battery was placed in one of those plastic battery boxes. For fastening I bolted a tray to the wood. Then I bolted 4 eye bolts to the wood and ran bungee cords over the battery box without the top on. I found the top to these battery boxes either cumbersome or it didn't fit, can't remember which one.
The kill switch was just hooked up to the positive side along with the amp fuse. The negative I bolted to the trunk floor (this proved to not be a good decision). The connections corroded quickly on the outside and I had to clean them like every 10k miles. Connect the ground to a bracket welded to the frame rail, that would be best.
I also ran rails right above the gas tank sides and bolted another 1/2 wood panel over the whole gas tank so I could mount eye bolts to hold down a large tool box and a spare tire. Right behind the rear seat was a boom box and on the driver's side trunk floor an amp. Every inch of that trunk was used. I also installed a power antenna on the driver's side trunk. Worked perfectly with no leaks. I'll eventually have pics on my trunk setup. Check out my homepage for the work I'm doing to my stang.
The battery was placed in one of those plastic battery boxes. For fastening I bolted a tray to the wood. Then I bolted 4 eye bolts to the wood and ran bungee cords over the battery box without the top on. I found the top to these battery boxes either cumbersome or it didn't fit, can't remember which one.
The kill switch was just hooked up to the positive side along with the amp fuse. The negative I bolted to the trunk floor (this proved to not be a good decision). The connections corroded quickly on the outside and I had to clean them like every 10k miles. Connect the ground to a bracket welded to the frame rail, that would be best.
I also ran rails right above the gas tank sides and bolted another 1/2 wood panel over the whole gas tank so I could mount eye bolts to hold down a large tool box and a spare tire. Right behind the rear seat was a boom box and on the driver's side trunk floor an amp. Every inch of that trunk was used. I also installed a power antenna on the driver's side trunk. Worked perfectly with no leaks. I'll eventually have pics on my trunk setup. Check out my homepage for the work I'm doing to my stang.
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