coda618

My point is that why does he need R&P, or disc upgrade. These are nice to have, but overkill for a cruiser. I have had 2 67's and a 69 all with manual drums, two w/o power steering. I have never felt the need for disc brakes, or a rack. In fact, I prefer the manual steering over the power. Granted, I don't drive like an idiot. If you were going to lay out some cash though, I would go for the disc before a rack, but not to the detrement of repairing the total suspension and braking. Just seems that people habitually recomend these expensive upgrades w/o considering the use of the car. Why not just get all new tubular suspension and coilovers etc? Because at some point the law of diminishing returns kicks in. If you only drive it as a cruiser/daily drive, all of these components become overkill and wasted money at some point.

For example, roller spring perches make a huge difference when putting them on a performance build. But for the average joe, I would not spend the money prior to haveing all the rest of the suspension components up to snuff.

My opinion is just to get everything new and then decide if these high priced upgrades are necessary for the intended use of the car. This gentleman was inquiring about just driving around and general handling in traffic, not racing at Sebring.

peteinphx

Wow, information overload. I will do some more research and try to plan things out. here is one question. In 1986 when I rebuilt the car I replaced all the suspension parts and brake lines and rebuilt the brakes. It is 20 years later and I have driven a total of ~12000 miles over the last 20 years, so how much of my parts should be over the hill (other than probably shocks)?

I am going to take it to a garage to have the suspension looked at to get an opinion about it's condition to get a starting point.

Thanks for all the advice.

coda618

If brake lines are not rusted or damaged, I would think they would be ok. I would replace rubber lines though, as rubber deteriorates over time and dry rots and cracks. Also, they can also deteriorate from the inside. Check the wc's by pulling the rubber plunger boot and see if there is any rust or pitting on the piston or in the cylinder. If so I would replace. Either way, have the brake fluid purged and replaced. You may wind up having to replace the wc's anyway if the bleader valves are frozen.

The rest of the suspension/steering can be checked an replaced as needed, but bushings should prob be replaced, again, rubber deterioratees over time, with or without driving the car.

So that we can provide more appropriate advice, can you tell us specifically what your intended goals for the car are and what kind of budget you have?
Thanks

grruminator78

I understand what you're saying coda, I was just trying to say if someone wants R&P why spend money twice. And I'm sure that drums work fine for you or whatever, but why not add the safety factor of at least front wheel discs???? I would never consider front wheel discs overkill, sure if you don't want to spend the money on changing the rears or whatever, but to each his own. I know R&P is very expensive in respect to just rebuilding the current steering set-up but if someone is planning on spending the money (later on down the road) and the steering is currently in need of replacement then why spend the money twice.

Fortunately I have a 67 with front discs. However I plan on switching to discs in the rear. I also WANT R&P, so instead of rebulding my working steering system, I will wait until my boss lets me buy the R&P.

Anyway pete, I suggest you think long and hard about what YOU WANT TO DO with YOUR car. Then ask around on how to achive it. Whatever you do don't settle for something. I've noticed a lot of us on this forum (I'm guilty too) live vicariously through other forum members when asked what would you do, but hey that's the point isn't it?

Lumbergh

To add to your confusion, I'm going to agree with CODA. I drive a classic truck with drum brakes and they work just fine. I mentioned to a local Mustang restorer that I planned to install front disc brakes within the next couple of years, and his opinion was similar to CODA's, if you don't plan on driving the heck out of it-racing or large amounts of driving on steep winding roads-just switch out the current dual master cylinder for a dual master with power booster. As far as doing the work yourself, you're the best judge of your physical ability/willingness to crawl under the car. My experience with rebuilding the front end on the 68 I bought for my wife was it isn't all that difficult. Replacing the shocks is real easy, and the most difficult part of the rest of the rebuild was the strut rods, just because the nuts were so dang tight (PB Blaster and time took care of that). The big thing is to find good quality parts especially the control arms. I got some control arms from John's Mustang that were nothing like the originals in terms of the amount of metal in them. I was fortunate enough to go to the local mustang restorer that I mentioned above, and he sold me some new control arms (and a few other items) that were nice and heavy like the originals. He also gave me advice on installation and problems that I should look for. For me, the closer I keep a car to original the more enjoyment I get out of it.

Soaring

Any disc brake conversion kit will not work with 14 X 5 wheels. I don't care whose kit it is. So, not only will it cost for the kit, it will also cost for new wheels. I have 14 X 7 wheels, and I am going to take a wheel to Dennis in Austin to test fit his kit before I buy it. He will not guarantee that it will fit my 14 X 7 wheels, but he guarantees that it will not fit a 14 X 5 wheel.
Since the suspension was built 12,000 miles ago, I see no reason to do it again. Maybe add some KYB gas adjust shocks, a monte carlo bar and an export brace. See if that stiffens up the front like you want it before throwing good money at suspension parts that have already been replaced. Also, adjust your current steering box to see if that take out some of the slop. If you don't know how to do it, PM me.

supermanzx9r

i have a lot of play in my steering

grruminator78

All I'm saing is that if you plan on doing something later, why do it half way (if it doesn't need to be done at all)? If he wants to keep the original wheels by all means keep them, but please rebuild the drums (I just prefer discs). If you don't want R&P by all means rebuild what you have, or even add power steering. As far as safety, please get that suspension rebuilt, also 3 point belts won't hurt but that steering colum will! If you want to get the disc brakes after all, looks like a good excuse to get some new wheels. A lot of those kits do save you money and you can get them for one section at a time. Mustangs plus seems to have a handle on the kits and you can buy it for the entire car ~1000 (front/rear/steering) or just do suspension and wait on steering. And hell while you're at it, why not cut up your shock towers and throw a terminator in there forget the suspension rebuild, do the mustang II fronts, go to NPD and get the independant rears and call it a day!

paddy187

I see were coda is coming from and I know what i would do but my wants are completely different to Petes. From what pete said the stang has been checked and it is what the stang shops would expect from a classic stang. I would get the brake fluid change and check the wheel cylinders. Not sure on the shocks being worn but at circa $120 for 4 KYB gas-ajust it not a bad second thing to do, new shocks reduce stopping distances. Then if your still not statisfied with that go further, but my best advace is remember your car is 40 years old and drive accordingly. Good luck

peteinphx

Again thanks all.
I think that I will go slow. I am going to drop the car off a different Mustang shop and they promised me to drive it, put it up on the hoist and go over the steering, suspension and braking to give me their view what things should be fixed. I am going to have the brake lines flushed and unless they tell me otherwise get new gas shocks (that I plan to install myself).

Once they give me their view of things I will be probably be back for more advice. I hope to drop it off this afternoon.

My goal is not to overkill the improvements but just make it so that my wife is not afraid to ride with me because the car wanders a little, pulls a little when braking and shakes a lot when we hit a bump or small hole. If I can do this without R&R or discs great, although I think that maybe manual discs on the front if I could sell my current styled steel wheels and upgrade to slightly bigger ones. New tires don't bother me since my current radials are about 10 years old with about 5-7k miles on them.

My brother keeps calling my car a death trap because he has a new 06 Mustang convertable and they are worlds different in handling!!!