peteinphx

I am just starting to have time to enjoy a early 65 that I have had since 79 and restored in 86. I guess retiring to PHX was the right thing!! Storing for 6-8 months to avoid snow for the last 27 years was no fun.
My convertable needs some updating so I can drive it a little more confidently here in city traffic. After a lot of reading I think this is what I should try to do to improve the handling:

replace my original manual master brake cylinder with a dual cylinder power assist for better stopping. I thought about putting in front discs but I need at least 14x7 wheels and my 20 year old SS wheels are probably 14x5 so that would add another ~$700 to the cost and from what I have read for my regular street driving the discs are an over kill.

My power steering is sloppy so I should rebuild the steering box or upgrade it and I should get a lot better handling.

Can anyone recommmend a shop where I could take my mustang for a second opinion and maybe the work since the more I read the more I think these projects might be above my skill level.

Any comments, suggestions and advice sure would be appreciated.
Happy driving

Brandontyler65

Mustang Service center its on 68th ave just south of northern/ (623) 939-6447
Mustang Mart 429 south 35th ave (35th ave and lincoln) (602)/ 233-0616
East Valley Mustang 2521 E McKellips Rd,Mesa, AZ 85213 - 3020/ (480) 733-0065
All Mustang & F-Body 3230 S 40 St Phoenix, AZ 85048/ (602)437-2727
The Mustang Shop 150 W Elliot Rd Ste 5 Chandler, AZ 85224 - 7769/ (480) 926-3883

there are a few and the phone numbers to go along with good luck

Colorado_Mustang

I'd go with the discs. It isn't the wheel width that determines if the disc will fit, but the design of the inside of the rim (on a 14 incher). Some 14 inch rims will fit, some won't. The disc brakes are a good idea if you exceed 45 mph and/or want straight stops each time.

Check out Master Power Brakes for some budget minded upgrades. Keep in mind that your manual brake pedal is different than the pedal for power brakes due to where the rod attaches.

For steering, you can replace the box with something a little tighter and make sure all the linkage is tight. Good springs, anti-sway bars, and shocks also go a long way in dealing with heavier traffic.

Post a pic of your wheels, there may be someone on here that knows if they'll fit over discs.


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peteinphx

Thanks for all the info, I did some checking in my old receipt box and found out that I do have 14x5 styled steel wheels.
I was on my way home and decided to stop at one of the Mustang shops that was in the reply and really got a shock. They told me that my Mustang was performing pretty much as when it was new but if I wanted to make it steer and brake better I could upgrade to a rack and pinion steering for around $4000 plus ~$1800 for new wheels and tires. Upgrading to manual front discs would cost about $2300.
But they tell me that my original restored car would be worth more than if I kept it original.

I am not sure how or if to proceed, anybody have any suggestions or ideas?

I just want something that would be fun and safe to drive here in the big city of Phoenix.

Gun Jam

As for the steering there are some R&P kits that are about 2,000 flaming river makes them , so do these guys http://unisteer.com/home.php?cat=250.

You can also go full manual for 500 bucks that’s what I did, Its pretty tight at first but after a few miles its frees up quite a bit. All you need is the flaming river manual steering box. There is very little steering play and it doesn’t require excessive force to steer.

Those are some options to consider.

Gun



PS those guys want to charge you a lot for that work. for about 1,000 bucks you can get front wheel disc by SSBC (stainless steel brake corporation) with dual master cylinder and all the other parts and has 4 piston calipers and fit under 14" wheels like you have. It takes about 1 hour to install wheel stuff and 1.5 hrs to do hydraulic plumbing.

peteinphx

Thanks for the info and advice. I guess I will do a lot more reading and checking before I move forward.
I am sure confused about how hard it will be to install the discs based on your comments and what the shop wanted to do it with a wilwood kit.
From what I read, it looks like for 14 wheels to work they must be 7 inches wide not 5 like have so I guess I see new wheels in my future as well.

Brandontyler65

well just go down to baer brakes they are on like 33rd ave and thomas they are based out of phx so just go to them they will get you the kit and can tell you everything you need to know

skiprCH

Welcome to the forums!
I just bought the single cylinder kit from MP brakes and they told me that my 14 by 5 styled steel wheels should fit. The kit with a dual master cylinder was 700.00 I have a '65 convertable and it steers great. I had the front end gone through. I also have the quicker ratio steering box that you would find on the GTs. You can find the steering boxes on fleebay and get it rebuilt.
Walt

coda618

No offense to anyone, but I see this all the time. A guy just wants a safe cruiser w/o spending a million and all of a sudden everyone is talking disk brake swaps, rack and pinion etc. Fine and well if you have the money and this is what you really want. But for the average person, they can wind up with a 2500 braking system and old worn out suspension because they do it one thing at a time because that is all they can afford. You know the weekest link in the chain theory right. In my opinion, the first thing that should bedone is to repair and mildly upgrade stock components. This way you have an appropriate baseline to judge from for further upgrades. Although a stcok mustang supension will not be great on a road racing course, for a daily driver/weekend cruiser, in my opinion it is more than sufficient. With the caviat that all must be in good condition.

Sir, if you want a nice handling ride tha will be safe for reasonable driving, consider:

Suspension:
New shocks-(kyb gas adjust are arguably the best bacg for the buck. I have used them on several of my stangs and they perform very well. About 35-40 ea.)

New Front Springs- new springs are under a 100 and can have a great effect on handling.

New rear springs - 200

Upper and lower ball joints/shafts, or upper and lower arms to make it simple. About 200 for a set.

One inch sway bar w/ new bushings and end links - 100

Strut rod bushings- 40

Steering: assuming manual
New inner/outer tie rods and sleaves. About 50-75 per side
Idler Arm- 50-60
Generally, the pitman arm and center link are no wear items and do not need to be replaced.

Have steering box appropriately adjusted. This may result in steering to your satisfaction. Although I do admit, if I was to spend money on anything it would be on a flaming river box, or have ing the original rebuilt. Even the rebuilt originals will tend to have a dead spot. If you just have it adjusted properly and do it yourself $0, rebuit about $250, falming river 400.

Have all the brakes rebuilt with new lines and hoses. Even if you were upgrading to disk etc, you should still change all the lines and hoses. Fluid should also be changed every two to three years. A complet and thourough brake job, new wheel cylinders, hardware etc, should be about 500.

Keep in mind that all of these parts can be bought in kits at substantial savings. Plus, if you have all the parts, you are not paying the mark up that the garages charge. You will just have to find someone to install.

For example:
At mustangs plus they have a comlete starter kit including suspension (shocks, springs, front and rear sway bars control arms, spring perches, bushings) and steering (tie rods, idelr arm) for $825 and brakes about $500. That's only about $1300 in parts and figure you could prob get soemone to do the work for 500-1000. Or, Do it yourself. So all in, for the price of BAER disc brake conversion (which would be over kill in this situation in my opinion) your car will have all new components and I would venture to say it will handle and brake to your satisfaction. Then you can at least make a reasonable decision as to whether such higher price upgrades are really worth it in your situation, and you won't be matching brand new super duty brakes with original 60's supension.

Ultimately the point is, do some research and if possible, do it yourself, you will not only save money, you will learn a lot and take pride in what you have accomplished. And hey, your retired, this will keep you out of your wife's hair. (Feel free to use that excuse when attempting top get authorization from the boss to buy all this stuff.)

Good luck

grruminator78

what's another 300 bucks for discs in the front? and then when you got the cash disks in the back. Deff rebuild the suspension, but if you plan on going to rack an pinion later (not saying you do) why spend the money to rebuild the steering in the front (except the parts you still need). Get the handling done, but with all the handling in the world you still need to be able to stop the bugger! good luck