WHY????????
12-13-2006, 05:10 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Gardena, California
Posts: 339
WHY????????
I finished getting my ME Christmas presents yesterday. I got my Oxy/Acetylene set up a couple of weeks ago and have been touching up on my skills. I got my Sears 33 gallon air comprerssor yesterday and set it up. I have my spot weld drill bits and my cowl patches are on the way. I still have to pull the fenders. One is welded on for some reason??????
My question is this. In the photo if you look at the lower edge on the seam to the lower left you'll see brass welded into the corner. Sorry the photo isn't closer. There are spots of brass along the rear glass lip as well. Why would the previous owner use brass instead of steel? Is there some benifit? Softer perhaps? I want to return the seam line. Should I use the torch to melt the brass? Will it melt before the steel or after? Or should I just take a grinder to it?
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/75ED485D798A4B40A6AF783BBC1D19E7.jpg[/IMG]
My question is this. In the photo if you look at the lower edge on the seam to the lower left you'll see brass welded into the corner. Sorry the photo isn't closer. There are spots of brass along the rear glass lip as well. Why would the previous owner use brass instead of steel? Is there some benifit? Softer perhaps? I want to return the seam line. Should I use the torch to melt the brass? Will it melt before the steel or after? Or should I just take a grinder to it?
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/75ED485D798A4B40A6AF783BBC1D19E7.jpg[/IMG]
12-13-2006, 05:26 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IL
Posts: 270
RE: WHY????????
ummm brass doesnt rust? Its a softer metal so it should melt before steel but i imagine grinding it out would be the better option.
My fenders were welded on too... i think it was because they were new fenders and rocker panel nose piece was rusted out so the person couldnt put a bolt in down their.
My fenders were welded on too... i think it was because they were new fenders and rocker panel nose piece was rusted out so the person couldnt put a bolt in down their.
12-13-2006, 06:05 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Gardena, California
Posts: 339
RE: WHY????????
Here are some shots I have of the bondo. When I get back on the car I'll take photos of the welds.
That entire contour on teh front is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of bondo!
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/5844EEA555E74AD48C655130C435673A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/9AFD09B7413642839DB53AC0824858CE.jpg[/IMG]
That entire contour on teh front is about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of bondo!
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/5844EEA555E74AD48C655130C435673A.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/52170/9AFD09B7413642839DB53AC0824858CE.jpg[/IMG]
12-13-2006, 06:33 PM
#7
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 181
RE: WHY????????
If I am correct, the brass was used from the factory. I have it around my front and rear windshield lips also. Also, lead was used in places from the factory as opposed to bondo-type plastic body fillers.
12-13-2006, 06:37 PM
#8
RE: WHY????????
Defintely from factory. they used it both on the backglass and windshield and sometimes also where the quarter panel mights the rocker panel by the door ( that corner). a more malleable metal to use and filler instead of Bondo. good luck im in the same boat as you but i already bought that panel from NPD
12-13-2006, 06:44 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Gardena, California
Posts: 339
RE: WHY????????
The lead was used around the body seams and pillars. I already used the torch, along with proper resperatory protection, to remove the lead around the passenger side A pillar and quarter panel. The lead was actually cracked! I already have the Eastwood Company kit to replace it. That will come later!
So I guess the factory wanted someting eisier to work with thatn steel, but stronger than lead.
So I guess the factory wanted someting eisier to work with thatn steel, but stronger than lead.
