Strut rod replacement
12-27-2006, 01:06 AM
#1
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MD/WV
Posts: 5,736
Strut rod replacement
Im away from my car right now so I cant investigate for myself, perhaps someone can help me. Can I simply remove my strut rods or do I have to compress that spring first? From my memory it should just unbolt, but perhaps the LCA could shift with the rod missing?
Also, if replacing the strut rod assembly on my 67cp, what should I get. I have new bushings and Ill need the rods themselves, but isnt there sleeves too? like on the tierods? Thanks
Also, if replacing the strut rod assembly on my 67cp, what should I get. I have new bushings and Ill need the rods themselves, but isnt there sleeves too? like on the tierods? Thanks
12-27-2006, 01:40 AM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location:
Posts: 3,645
RE: Strut rod replacement
No, you dont need to compress the spring. You dont even have to jack up the car or remove the wheel really, but the last time i did, i think i had the car in the air, with the wheel off. It still works just fine.
12-27-2006, 02:48 AM
#3
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location:
Posts: 444
RE: Strut rod replacement
While I did mine with the car up on jackstands, I was replacing/rebuilding the entire front suspension. I could see removing and installing new strut rods without jacking the car up; it's just nto how I did it. And, yes there is a sleeve-brass, I believe-that goes over the rod end and inside of the bushings. It's not like the ones on the tie rods which allow you to adjust the length of the inner and outer tie rods.
12-28-2006, 04:55 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location:
Posts: 182
RE: Strut rod replacement
I replaced mine with the aircraft grade Ball end, hard mounted to the frame. Best improvement I made in the handling of the car. I was able to have my alignment shop dial in 3 degrees of caster, which did MANY good things: 1) the car and wheel now center much better 2) The car now holds a straight line going down the road 3) the "oversteer" completely went away
The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!
The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!
12-28-2006, 05:12 PM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marquette Mi
Posts: 3,566
RE: Strut rod replacement
ORIGINAL: ebluekeys
I replaced mine with the aircraft grade Ball end, hard mounted to the frame. Best improvement I made in the handling of the car. I was able to have my alignment shop dial in 3 degrees of caster, which did MANY good things: 1) the car and wheel now center much better 2) The car now holds a straight line going down the road 3) the "oversteer" completely went away
The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!
I replaced mine with the aircraft grade Ball end, hard mounted to the frame. Best improvement I made in the handling of the car. I was able to have my alignment shop dial in 3 degrees of caster, which did MANY good things: 1) the car and wheel now center much better 2) The car now holds a straight line going down the road 3) the "oversteer" completely went away
The "Stock" setting for Caster is 1/2 degree - but most modern cars have MUCH more. Going to 3 degrees and using the hard mount with the ball link makes a HUGE positive improvement in the steering/handling of the car. I also installed a set of KYB "self adjusting" shocks, and the ride is not only smoother, but handling is much better as well!!
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