1970coupe

yeah me too. i wanna put some in but dont need a water trap problem.

RolandT3Speed

Check out Dynamat.

Chip Foose just loves it!

Seriously, it is good stuff.

hammerit

I used Second Skin at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
So far I've done under and behind the rear seat, the package shelf and the trunk. Made a dramatic differance.

andrewmp6

Truck bed spray in liner is great the roll on is iffy.Bloo your cowl vent is rusted out or heater core is leaking.

Bloo Beest

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Actually, the cowl dams were repaired about twelve years back (when the new floor pan was put in --do the math!) and the heater core is tight, but the car was repaired after a front end accident and the right torque box was never re-installed.

The A-pillar kept cracking and the owner couldn'y figure out why. He leaded it before the last paint job but of course it cracked again. When I bought it he told me the cowl was probably leaking, but I don't think thats the promary cause.

The drip rail on the front passenger side is in really bad shape, and a lot of damage to the pillar. I haven't got it all stripped down there yet to evaluate it.

I have a new cowl assembly, that looks like a lot of fun to install. I will probably undercaot the inside of that before it's installed, or maybe the bed liner.

Antway, I will have to cut the "new" seat mounts out tocheck, I am sure there is a rust propblem under them as well as the rust om the floor pans extends up to the edges.

I (so far) can find only a small pinhole through the passenger side pan. I'm wondering if it's something I can clean down to metal and patch with JB Weld.

I have used the Duplicolor spray on bed liner with really good results on a lot of things. I repainted the inner fairing on my Electraglide and some of the other plastic trim parts, almost an exact match for the HD engine casing paint. Works really good on helmets, too.

I wonder if a cout of liner with a coat of undercoating on top? The liner is much tougher that undercoating, seals well, but I don't know if it would get brittel over the years and crack. undercoating over the corners would help if the liner cracks?

Am I over-thinking this?

Stevetra

My car is a 67, and never had a right torque box.
I am not sure about the 69, but 67 coupes didnt have them unless they had a big block engine, and even then I am not positive they did.

Bloo Beest

This one. had a right, but no left.

Could bethe A-pillar was cracked during the long ago colision. and the 5.0 recracked the pillar. The thing is torquey. The first time I stepped into it it looked like a fat lady jumped onto the right fender.

I haven't completely revealed the area yet so it's possible the original repair was not done right. I've seen some lead in there, which is not really what you'd car a structural metal. When its redone it will all be welded up. I understand no one is making a replacement part for the pillar, but that new unibody manufacturer is making them for their bodies so maybe there will be some on the market soon. If I need one I will probably be able to get an old one somewhere.

baddog671

You have a passenger side torque box but no driver? Thats interesting. Most came with the driver side, vert's have both I beleive...

F14chuck

Back in '94 I ordered new carpet and underlay from NPD. Underlay was rubberized mat. Sound deadener at the time was really expensive, plus my car is a '69 vert so its gonna be loud anyway. Only had a little rust at the time so I used rust converter and paint.

Fwd to last Oct. 13 yrs later. I found only a little rust under the drivers side mats. Some pin holes thru the floor. Some minor rust under some of the other rubber mats. Ground out the entire interior. Redid the rust converter treatment and sprayed rubberized under coating everywhere. Did the same underneath the car including some JB weld to the pin holes. If it lasts another 13 yrs I'll be happy/lucky. Wish I had been on this forum last year.

All the underlayment discussed here also looks great. Luckily the carpet and seats hide all the mess ofmy sprayed undercoating. When its time to fully replace the floor pans I'm gonna go that route. For now I have a stop gap that was cheap, fastand really easy to do.

Bloo Beest

Yes, mine had a driver's side only. I was hoping to fix a coupole of pinholes but yesterday I wire brushed the floor out and it looks like I need more than that on the outer sides of each front floor, and on one side on the back where it's deep next to the tunnel.

I see at CJ they have a seat pedestal that extends all the way across; any of you guys used one or know what benefit it has?