TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
#11
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
dont buy "bondo" brand filler its out dated get some evercoat z grip good filler for the money
as for the rust problems lots of people use it incorrectly in fill rust holes. the thing is body filler contains clay and talc which absorb water so it quickly creates rust
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
as for the rust problems lots of people use it incorrectly in fill rust holes. the thing is body filler contains clay and talc which absorb water so it quickly creates rust
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
#12
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
rmodel does body work trust what he says i wont use body filler over a 1/16 of a inch and remember its not a hole filler. i seen body filler and fiberglass patchs done wrong so much its funny just remember filler is only as good as the metal its over eastwood sells body hammers and dollys and spoons
#13
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
u can pick up a set of hammers and dollys for a good price from here or anything autobody related for that matter www.abtm.com
#15
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
bondo gold the highest grade (blue) is great.. you get it at walmart its the same as the other store fillers...
everybody uses bondo... prepin the surface is the key.. then sanding and makin it uniform
everybody uses bondo... prepin the surface is the key.. then sanding and makin it uniform
#17
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
ORIGINAL: rmodel65
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
#18
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
ORIGINAL: Shifty101Easy
wow, that welding a thumb tack idea is friggin brilliant....im gonna try that.
ORIGINAL: rmodel65
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
also back in the day they use to drill hole to pull dents and would wipe filler over the holes(now adays u weld a pin on then grind it off, no holes) so u have exposed filler over the holeswich quickly absorb water creating rust on an otherwise good panel
The 67 Cougar in the shop had some large dents filled with bondo or some other filler. Some spots were 2" deep with holes drilled in it to use a dent puller. the holes were just covered up nd the dents werent pulled very well. So what happend to the dent was the bad ones have been cut out, and patched with good sheetmetal, the not so bad ones have been worked back into shape to require much less filler. Some shops just slap filler into everything rather than spend the time needed to work the dent back out.
Less filler is better, you only want a thin coat of it. The pics here illustrate what happened with the Cougar.
First is the dent, not a good pic to show how deep it was, but it was nasty. It started on the door, then went down the quarter to the wheel lip. The wheel lip was done first using a portion of an old junk Mustang fender to avoid needing to form the entire piece from flat metal.
Then the hole from cutting out the most severely dented area only. A patch was made to fit the hole and the surrounding metal worked back into shape, including the wheel lip area.
The patch as it looked after being stiched on with a mig, you cant lay a bead on sheetmetal, it will burn through at the least, and warp the entire panel at worst. The worst usually happens. Short quick spot welds placed at the corners, then halfway down the sides, then between each of those. Just keep putting them between the previous spots, while taking your time and letting things cool. I had to do some shrinking on it, so I quenched the welds.
Carefully grind the welds down so you dont put heat into the metal. it takes awhile to do that.
When its done, it shouldnt be a dent anymore, and when i did this one, I goofed a bit and now i will need almost a 1/4" of filler to make the panel the same level as the door and fender, as measured with a straight edge.
You DO NOT have to do that with every dent, but a nasty one that cant be straightened on a piece you cant get in reproduction (Nobody makes 67 Cougar quarter panels, fenders or doors) will need something like that. You want the best metal under the paint and filler as possible. the other dents that were taken out werent quite that bad, one on the front fender was almost 2" thick with filler, and on a body line. Took about 5 hours of working it to get it close enough for filler.
Experts who restore and build concours 100pt vehicles will get the dent so smooth you would never know it was there by looking at the bare metal. They are the types who can take a flat piece of sheetmetal and make a fender or door out of it. You dont need to go that far for a driver, because it takes ALOT of time, but you need to get the dents out without distorting the sheetmetal around it. Working the edges first and concentraing on lowering the high spots rather than bring up the low spot of the dent will work very well.
If your Stang has some big dents in the quarters, fenders, or doors, its often easier and cheaper to buy replacement panels, rather than going to an extreme like the Cougar quarter. Especially if you arent an experinced welder.
btw I dont use bondo either. I use the evercoat metal glaze for small area work, and evercoat litewheight filler for the larger areas, like the quarter panel repair. Much better quality than the stuff you get at walmart.
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#19
RE: TO BONDO OR NOT TO BOND.....
ok well thats not what i was imagining but even if thats what he meant i just got an idea....like i have these annoying little holes for emblems and stuff and they are about the size of a thumb tack...i wonder if i could weld in heads of thumbtacks since its already nice and round and just grind it down.....
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