Valve chatter
#1
Valve chatter
So took the stang out for a drive and pushed it a bit but when i got back the engine was making a chattering noise not too load mainlyfrom the passenger valve cover so what is likely to be the problem do i need to adjust the valve clearances and can a novice mechcanic like me do it easierly? The engine is a is an early70's 302
Cheers Paddy
Cheers Paddy
#2
RE: Valve chatter
Yeah, there is the messy way, then there is the clean way. The easiest way is messy because you have to have the engine running with the valve cover off. I suggest you try the clean way first. Here is how you do it. http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/valveadj.html
#3
RE: Valve chatter
I'm going to add a note, just because my new set of lifters is manufactured without the internal spring on the plunger (Comp Cams Pro Magnum). Make sure your lifters do have a spring on the plunger by pushing down on the push rod and making sure it comes back up (it'll be slow with the oil resistance). If they are of the springless style, they are adjusted with a lash that is taken up with the oil pressure.
But, +1 on Glen's web link for 99% of hydraulic lifters.
But, +1 on Glen's web link for 99% of hydraulic lifters.
#4
RE: Valve chatter
Glen, fogive my stupidity but what is the easist way to bump the car so that the exhaust valve starts up and colorado I will check to make sure when i get around to doing this.
#5
RE: Valve chatter
Put a socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it clockwise. You don't want to use the starter.
If you know the brand/PN of your lifter, you'll know which style they are. If you're pretty stock, you'll have the conventional style lifter with the internal spring (though it could be broke...that's why mine are being replaced).
If you know the brand/PN of your lifter, you'll know which style they are. If you're pretty stock, you'll have the conventional style lifter with the internal spring (though it could be broke...that's why mine are being replaced).
#6
RE: Valve chatter
And use a 1/2" socket wrench with I believe a 15/16 socket and a cheater pipe. It is easier if you pull the spark plugs first to cut down on the compression so you don't have to work so hard at bumping the engine over.
#7
RE: Valve chatter
Ok that makes sense and it sounds like I should be able to do it but expect lot of questions whenI do it most likely next fortnight. I take it turning the crank clockwise as you look from the front of the car to the rear.After doing all cylinder is there anything else thatI must do timing adjustment or anything... Cheers for your help.
Paddy
Paddy
#10
RE: Valve chatter
You want the engine warm to compensate for the metal expansion. You can do it cold, but allow for more clearance when the metals expand. ie, turn it down a little less when cold as compared to hot.
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