shelby drop question
#1
shelby drop question
I was going through the FAQ on the Shelby drop and it looks like the picture contradicts what I had heard. I thought the Shelby drop was to drill the holes in the shock towers 1" lower and 1/8" to the REAR - it looks like the picture in the FAQ has the holes drilled 1" lower and 1/8" to the FRONT. Which way is correct, isn't 1" lower and 1/8" to the REAR??????????????
#2
#4
RE: shelby drop question
templates of the shelby drop are readily available. try http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/1109/1dropjw1.jpg
my understanding is the upper ball joint is over extended using thismod. There's a paperback titled Ford Restomod's, that has the template and a very detailed article of the pro's and con's for this mod.
my understanding is the upper ball joint is over extended using thismod. There's a paperback titled Ford Restomod's, that has the template and a very detailed article of the pro's and con's for this mod.
#5
RE: shelby drop question
ya, I think the FAQ template is correct. on jamesw's post, it mentions a variant of the mod where they just put the holes 1" lower and don't put back 1/8".
1st I have heard about the upper ball joint over extension. going to search now
1st I have heard about the upper ball joint over extension. going to search now
#6
RE: shelby drop question
The only reason the 65-66 Mustangs drill the new holes 1/8" is to gain more positive caster.
Get a set of adjustable length strut rods (like the 67 and up Mustangs) and its no longer a big deal.
Get a set of adjustable length strut rods (like the 67 and up Mustangs) and its no longer a big deal.
#7
RE: shelby drop question
I just did some searching on google and didn't really turn up anything negative about the ball joint movement (did find one indicating that the shelby drop would prevent the ball joint from binding - so contrary to the concern above).
btw, nice website jamesw!
btw, nice website jamesw!
#8
RE: shelby drop question
To counter the stress the upper ball joint gets from doing the Shelby Mod - I had a heavy duty Moog ball joint installed on the upper control arm. Should do the trick for the extra stress imparted to it.
#9
RE: shelby drop question
check out this shelby drop kit from ebay - it has a spacer on the bottom and upper ball joints and reinforcement - is all this really necessary??? If I am going with 16" or 17" rims, would this compensate????
#190072158274
#190072158274
#10
RE: shelby drop question
Having actually owned a 66 Shelby, I performed the drop on it. The instructions I was given was to draw a line through the original bolt holes, come down 1 inch parallel to it and draw another line. Then go vertically below the holes and where this line intersected the 1 inch line drill the new holes. If my memory is correct this shifted the upper control arm mount slightly forward.I used stock Ford upper ball joints on mine until they finally needed replacing. I don't remember what I used for replacements. You will need to realign the front end after you do this, Shelby used 2 degrees positive caster and 0 degrees camber on his cars. You need to realise these cars were set up for bias ply tires, I know when I had mine some of us tried the early belted radials like BF Goodrich and they rolled under so badly the cars handled like pigs. I used G60-15 tires on mine on a set of 15X7 Boss 302 wheels. You can see what it looked like in my album.
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