MC

http://www.mustangsandmore.com/ubb/B...mallBlock.html

Sounds pretty good to me!,, it might have already been posted--

P Zero

Well it looks pretty decent except for one thing, 750 cfm on a 289 or 302! BWAHHAHAHHAA what a joke! The largest you should ever go on a mostly stock 302 is 650 double pump. Unless its super radical then it could warrant a 750.
And personally, I dont even think you need to spend that much to get that kind of power. Heres an easier and way cheaper way. Get a high milage 302, tear it down and degrease. Palstiguage the crank and rod journals. If theyre within spec, leave em alone, if not machine the crank. Hone the cylinders, you can get a good hone at sears. Hook it up to your drill, oil the cylinders and have at it.
Replace the rod and main bearings with some clevite or other higher quality items (whether you get it turned or not). Get some good rings (moly). Then find yourself a set of 69/70 351 heads. Get em machined, hardend valve seats, guide plates, screw in studs, mill em .030. This will probably be the most expensive part of your build.
THen get a good medium rise single or dual plane intake (edelbrock torker or weiand x-celerator) and a 650 double pumper. As for a cam, carbs love lots of duration something along the lines of .496/.510 lift 280/292 duration, should do just fine and give it one hell of a lope.
That right there should easily make over 300HP (if not more) at the back tires with a 5spd.
-P.

Soaring

PZero makes a good point about the honing. I have overhauled several engines, and have never had them bored out. I just hone the old one, use the same pistons, and replace the bearings with new ones after the crank has been turned.
And, boring to 60 over? 30 is best, and 40 is the most I have always heard and read.

Decurion

Or save yourself a lot of time, money, and effort and get a set of gt-40 heads. If you can fit the gt40-P heads, theyre even cheaper than the non-P heads. Used sets go for $3-400 and come with hardened seats already. Add a set of cobra roller rockers and forget all the machining for screw in studs.

scott_m_mil

I agree with these guys. #1 750 is way too big. Now, I know some of the original Shelby's speced at 750 cfm but keep in mind carb technology now is much better than it was then. And going .060 over [sm=insomnia.gif][sm=insomnia.gif]I mean I've heard of it and I've seen it, but I'm no fan. Hell we rebuilt a 5.0 with 120xxx on it and only needed to hone it and ridge ream it.

my77stang

thats what i have on mine - alot of people forget or dont know these are better than the normal sbf heads. (with the exception of the later gt-40 stuff)

ridge reamers are the devil, if you are not REALLY carefull you can screw up the block using these things.

.060 is always frowned upon from people on here, but i'll tell ya from experience in a production machine shop that we would still use a block if it took .060 to clean up - never had a problem.

now, if it was a marine block or for some other reason had ALOT of internal rot / rusting, then i wouldnt wanna go that far. other than those instances .060 is fine. hell, they made .080 for SBC's for awhile, but you start running out of room for the head gasket sealing ring.

*edit* if your gonna one something start with a 3 stone cause they keep everything as close to true as possible, but finish it off with a dingle ball hone, the end result is much better - also using moly rings you want a finer finish or the rings wont last as long as they should - making a finer grit dingle ball that much more worth the money after using a course 3 stone jobby

P Zero

Yeah but those heads wont have 600 lift valve springs, which require a hardend pushrod and recommend guide plates. My bro had C9 351's on his stang and when he first put it back together he used the stock pushrods. They lasted about 15 minutes before 10 of em bent. He even bent a couple hardend ones at really high rpm's.
And when you get the heads machined theyll have a "performance" 3 angle valve job, bronze guides and higher compression than the GT40's. Also, studs are way stronger than the bolt-down BS, I have seen those tear out before. My neighbor machined my bros heads, it cost him a whopping $320 bux thats including parts and SS valves. I think he picked up the heads for $200.
-P.

JBradley500

i didnt think ford made a good set of windsor heads in 1970??

scott_m_mil

69 and 70 heads are nearly identical. You might only find a difference in the late 70 heads when the 71 changes started to take affect.

my77stang

easily identified by either casting number or the "dog legged" shaped water jackets on the intake side of the head