palerider

I'd like to get a little more out of my 302 and keep it streetable and under $3k. I don't domuch highway driving but lot of booney roads at 55+ around where I'm at. Looking for a stop light to stop light power but if I take out on highway I don't want it to be a chore.

Looking for a proven combo that will get me 350hp/350 torque. Have a c4, and 8" rear with 3.00 gears. Also have 600 holley , MSD ready to run, ceramic hooker comp headers, magnaflow exhaust, and 289 performer.I've heard if I get too close to 400 will need to beef up tranny and rear end. Would like to keep most part I added (mostly new) except intake (don't have a problem swapping that out). Thinking of going to 3.50 gears in rear. Was not planning on to stroke it out - for the most part was going to leave block alone and leaning more toward bolt on parts.

I've gotten some suggestions on edelbrock performer package and may just end doing that. But I'd thought I'd see if any more suggestions. Looking for a proven heads, intake, cam combo.Looking to build a complete parts list so that I can buy parts individually if I see them on sale. Heard good things about AFR heads and was thinking that may be a good start.

Any help would be appreciated. thanks

muggsy

Pretty common question with a million different opinions. However, you're budget numbers are realistic. I just went through this, so here's what I was gonna do (I ended up doing a 450HP stroker instead):

1a)AFR 165 cc Street Aluminum heads or 1b)TFS Twisted Wedge 185cc CNC ported aluminum heads

2a)If you have an old block, Comp XE262H-10 Cam (.493/.500) Hydraullic flat tappet cam.
2b) Ifyou have a roller block, then I would use the Trick Flow Stage 1 Cam.

Mild or no torque converter upgrade to tranny with this Comp cam, mild stall needed for the Trick Flow Stage 1. Torque converters are around $300 and they are pretty much bolt on upgrades to the tranny, but you do have to disconnect and take the tranny out to do it. If you're pulling the motor to do this work (recommended), you'll be looking the stall converter right in the eye anyway...With either of these cam options, I'd get the whole Cam and Lifter kit......

3) Optional: 7 qt. Oil Pan, cooling system upgrade....

How are your brakes and suspension? I did power disc brakes and all new suspension last winter (05-06) and the motor/tranny job this winter. You gotta have those things done first if they're not there already. Made a huge difference in performace and more importantly, safety. Keep your intake and carb. and exhaust...upgrade rear end "ring and Pinion" to 3.55

Just a guess, 325-350HP at flywheel.

Not sure if you're doing this work yourself or not, but this is under $3000 in parts. If you have leftover $$$, get the internals rebuilt (pistons, rings, hone/bore etc)

Problem I ran into was that when my motor was pulled, I found out that the 289 block was no good. I bought a replacement standard bore block used, and it was cracked. So I got frustrated and bought a new Ford Racing 347 Stroker Short block instead....totally changed my project from a mild 325-350HP rebuild to a completely different animal. Went waaaaay over my budget (which coincidentally was around $3k at first myself)...learning experience to say the least, so my advice is to have a plan B and definitely get your block and internals checked and/or replaced at the same time....save yourself the aggravation. Do it right the first time.

palerider

Thanks Mugsy

All new suspension 4.5 leafs, roller perches, 620 springs, etc. Rebuilt all brakes & lines - have power drums - seem to be sufficient.

Do have an old block - I think it original '70 302.

I do plan on pulling the engine this winter to do engine bay & cowl.Will look at torqueconverter option.

68SCode4speed

Here's some good reading for you on the subject.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ngine_buildup/

Soaring

There is absolutely no mention of what you have done to either refresh or beef up the suspension and brakes. If you can't stop it, you ain't gonna put a beast on the street. If you can't corner, then why have enough power to take a 40 MPH curve at 80, but not enough suspension to take it at 40? Your first priority to get the right suspension and brakes. Then add the rear and gears, then add the hot rod engine. You don't start with the engine.

67mustang302

Yeah, suspension and brakes, then drivetrain, then engine. As far as 350hp/tq RELIABLY from a 302, you ain't doing it for under $3,000. You're looking at $1,500 easy just for heads/valvetrain, prolly more if you don't already have good rockers. Good gaskets aren't cheap. Don't put power to a stock bottom end if you want it too last. 302's have flimsy rods and even flimsier rod bolts. You'll need a good piston/ring package if you want to have engine longevity and good oil control. Then when you add in block machining, boring if needed, honing etc. You can build a good 302 for under $3,000, but you're not gonna get reliability and power on that sorta budget. You might get 300hp, but not 350 and have it last a long time

palerider

I understand priorties of getting the car going - suspension, brakes, then engine. I'm basically on engine part now.

Quess I was not clear unless I'm missing something on remarks about suspension.

1. New upper/lower control arms, tie rods, idler arm
2. 1 1/8" sway bar
3. 620 springs
4. Roller perches
5. Kyb Gas adjust in front, Monroes in back
6. 4.5 standard eye leaf springs
7. Monte carlo & export brace
8. New u joints & front yoke.
9. Strut rod bushings

Have not put on subframe connectors but would do it if necessary.

Brakes all new parts including stainless lines and hoses. Left drum but they are power.

Maybe better off just getting ford racing crate than screwing around with current set up if it starts pushing past $3k.

muggsy

YES, CRATE! Less headache.

mustanglover66

You can do better then a ford racing crate same or better quality but at a better price. I do work here so I know how much care goes it to each and every engine. One thing you would find on the website is a short block but you can get one I belive they go for around $1800 but don't quote me on that. I'm only a machinist not sales. http://tandlengines.com/

67mustang302

You suspension sounds to be in good order, you might wanna think about gears if you ain't got it, and some sorta diff locker etc if you don't have that either. Definately get sub-frame connectors, otherwise you'll have traction problems and twist your chassis. And DEFINATELY put discs at least on the front, drums can't dissipate heat quickly enough when you talk about high speeds from high horsepower, especially repeatedly. Crate engines are nice, no hassle and have a warranty but mustanglover66 is right, you can do better. A good short block would be a nice way to go, with a good bottom end and a cam, then slap on the heads/intake etc and you can build a good engine for a reasonable amount of money. The old sayings go as such "Cheap, powerful, reliable...pick 2" "You gotta pay to play" and so on. Quality performance engines that are reliable, aren't cheap, though don't necessarily have to break you either