sxtyfostang

I'm new to this board but not new to Mustangs, I have 4 of them in all states of drivability and repair. A 64 1/2 coupe, 66 fastback, 66 coupe, and 84 SVO. I just got the 66 coupe, it's an A code and I luv it, if I could get it to start correctly. I've done alot of searching including a post preceding this oneand can't find a solution. Here's the deal.

I have replaced the starter solenoid, replaced the entire ignition assembly (switch and cylinder), checked all wires for integrity, and made sure all wires go where they are supposed to per Ford wiring schematics. When I turn the ignition switch to "ON" all of my accessories work and I have 12V on the "post" on the back of the starter switch. I also have a little over 6V on the right side small terminal "I" on the starter solenoid. This tells me the ignition switch is good, the thing is brand new so it better be! When I turn the key to "START" I get nothing, the solenoid doesn't even click. What is going on????? Why isn't my ignition exciting the solenoid? The most embarassing part about this is I have a BS in Electrical Engineering and I have spent about 10 hours on this dang thing over the past week going over wires and replacing components to no avail. I have devised my own way tostart themotor over by installing a wired switch to the solenoid as well as a push button to apply the 12V signal to the solenoid and the motor fires just fine. This is a 4 speed toploader car so there is no neutral safety switch and no aftermarket installed clutch safety switch. Sorry this is so long and drawn out....could someone please help me??

66GTKFB

On the solenoid, the red-blue stripe wire is in the terminal to the left, aka front, and the brown wire is on the right (rear) terminal. The front is the full 12VDC to the coil and should read about 8VDC. The rear is the 12VDC to engage the solenoid for start. There is also a connection under the dash that allows a Rally Pac's tach to hook up in the ignition circuit. Go to the FAQ section and look up the wiring diagrams.
Jim
When I was a technician, we had a saying - 'make it simple enough for an engineer to understand'.

gothand

Jim,

I don't have a wiring diagram handy and maybe I'm misreading your post, so bear with me. I'm though that the front wire that attaches to the 'S' terminal is 12V switched from the ignition during startingwhich closes the starter solenoid (connects the battery side of the solenoid to the starter side). The wire connected to the 'I' terminal goes to the coil and is is spliced withthe reduced switched voltage (pink wire) from the ignition switch. When the vehicle is cranking over (12V supplied to the 'S' terminal), it also closes the solenoid to the 'I' terminal and supplies a full 12V to the coil during startup.

I must admit, I am a registered professional engineer (Civil) and I don't quite understand your explanation. I thought I knew how it all worked until reading your post and am now confused.[:-]

[edit] The reason I know the front 'S' terminal (red-blue wire) is 12V to close the solenoid is because you can touch a screwdriver across the 'S' terminal and the front side of the solenoid and it will crank over.

sxtyfostang

I have about 3 diagrams in front of me right now, as I have through the whole process and the brown wire goes on the right (rear small terminal) and the red w/blue stripe goes on the left (front small terminal). The wire that goes to the coil is red w/green stripe which looks to be spliced with the pink resistive (1.3 to 1.4 ohm) wire which comes from the ignition switch. I though this wire could be bad but I checked it and it is ok.

gothand

Doesn't it show the brown wire from the 'I' terminal being spliced with the pink resistance wire and the wire that goes to the coil or am I remembering it entirely wrong?

66GTKFB

This Australian wine that Ben recomended is good - oh, wires - from the Shop Manual, the front terminal is the solinoid actuating wire - I just looked at my 65 and got a refill - red-blue tracer. (Jacob's Creek - Cabernet.) That leave the brown on the rear terminal.
Rats - disreguard my previous post number 2 above - this one is correct. Front is 12VDC to start, rear is 12DVC to the coil. The Shop Manual also has a neutral start switch connector and I believe it should have a connection under the dash (Third reference wiring diagram.) that eliminates the auto lockout switch, red-blue tracerwire, near the firewall connector.
Jim

Cindy

When you get a chance, post some pics.
Would love to see your collection. [sm=shades.gif]

66GTKFB

In the FAQ section http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamm...66/66ignit.jpg
I going out to dinner.
Jim

Cindy

Enjoy your dinner!

LCC

NO clicky, I would start at the neutral safety switch because you have seen 12VDC at the "S" terminal with the key in the start position, correct?.....
Jump out the two pins at the fire well, the other two pins are for the backup lights..