NorCalTroy

I remember a couple of threads about this not that long ago, they were actually pretty funny reads...

https://mustangforums.com/m_2964007/tm.htm
https://mustangforums.com/m_2975052/tm.htm

I'm pretty sure there were a couple more threads also, but I can't seem to find them.

Good luck!

Fordication

Hey guys, I may be way off but what stops him from dropping the oil pan and knocking it out with a rod from below. I mean the am is below the distributer and above the crank. Is there anywhere in there to get a long rod. Yes I know I am not a mechanic and the truth is all of my rebuilt motors have been chevy 350's except for the y-block and I did not rebuild that one.

Levitan

Well, after days of penetrating oil, I gained access to a huge 5 foot pry bar. My cousin welded up a pickle fork looking thing that fit right under the distributor cap housing. We welded it to the pry bar and as I turned the car over, my cousin pried up on the bar. Pop!! Popped the distributor cap housing and the rotor mount right off the top of the distributor. The story of my life, I'm stuck with a 2 inch stub. I was bummed, but my cousin and I put our heads together and came up with a new tool design. If this sucker works, I will be patenting this ***** Hello and we will never have this problem again! I will be reporting back this weekend with the results..... or the crime report.

NorCalTroy

It amazes me the sense of humor you guys have in dealing with this problem. Thanks for the laughs!

And of course... Good Luck!

valley firearms

Dynamite!
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JMD

Last time this issue popped up I had a 351 in the garage without a pan. Yes IMO the oil pump can be removed, and a long drift could be placed into the oil pump driveshaft hole and it might be possible to drive a distributor out this way. Other than that, the access is extremely limited.

Levitan

I would like to start by saying good morning to all of you(imagine angels with harps singing in the background). The sun is shining today and the heavens have sprinkled a little love on me today. Woke up at 5:30 this morning with one thing in mind, distributor removal or white outline with crime scene tape circling the devastation. Above posts led me tothreads by SXS191concerning dizzy removal, but didn't state ifhe ever completed the task or how. I emailed him and he responded, Thanks Scott!! So, here's my version of what he told to do.....did I mention, with $ucce$$!!!!!

Few things needed: torch, firestarter aka. lighter, largest pair of channel locks, non-flammable spray penetrating oil, papertowels to dry excess penetrating oil, bucket of water to extinguish any mishaps with perviously listed items, and a good attiude!

I have had penetrating oil on this for over a week(not sure that it did any good). Last night Iwiped up the pool of penetrating oil, and added a different one, ZEP45(note:FLAMMABLE). This morning I dried up the ZEP with papertowels, moved all meltable, burnable, not good to get heat near, things outta the way and torched the heck outta the base of the dizzy housing.After several minutes of this, I killed all fire and sprayed ZEP until pooled. I then grabbed the channel locks with bothhands and wiggled the dizzy back and forth. Houston, we have movement!!!! Round 2. Dried up pooled Zep, torched the base of the dizzy housing forseveral minutes. Note: not sure if it made a diference, but I waswatching for remaining penetrating oil to boil around the seam between the dizzy housing and the block. I figured if I had it boiling, it would be boiling down the dizzy tube, melting and cooking away the corrosion that is holding up my progress. Resprayedwith ZEP, regrabbed housing with giant channellocks, wiggling back and forth, easier and further!!!! Okay, break time while letting everything cool down. Return to car to torch again. Decide to trychannel locks one more time. Left right left right left riiiii....out!!!!!! I am screaming in joy as I type this!! I threw my hands in the air like Rocky after running up those stairs!!Moral of the story....Heat, big pliers 'til removal occurs!! I recommend trying this before using pry bars. Learn from my mistakes.....please!! Thanks Again SXS!!!

Jaded

Congrats! Both on removing the dizzy and not going up in flames! So tell us, was it corrosion around the base or what?

Levitan

Thanks for the Congrats. Yes, it was corrosion at the base. To be more specific, above the o-ring IMHO. I think the o-ring gets stuck on the block wall and the dizzy housing. With no where to flex or move, it just becomes one with the corrosion. Man, what a huge relief!! The key is getting the dizzy to turn. As long as you get it turning back and forth, even just a little bit, it will eventually come out using these techniques!

boogerschnot

[sm=icon_cheers.gif] I glad for you! Now you can get back to work..