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408 windsor question

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Old 09-19-2007, 03:41 PM
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Mustang.
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Default 408 windsor question

how much would i cost meto machine a 351 windsor to a 408?
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:46 PM
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my77stang
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

as much as it would cost them to remachine your block for a 351 rebuild. the difference is in the rotating assembly, and you can purchase crank/rods/pistons/rings/bearings for like 1000 bucks. you MAY have to notch the bottom of the cylinders to let the rods clear with a stroker, but any guy with a die grinder or dremel tool can accomplish that
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:53 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

ORIGINAL: Mustang.

how much would i cost meto machine a 351 windsor to a 408?
The machine work is not any more extensive than for a standard rebuild if you use H beam rods....

If you use I beam rods you will need to make clearance notches on the bottom of the cylinders. When I installed the stroker crank in our 351, I requested a "tool" (free) that will show exactly where to grind the cylinders out for clearance. I used a die grinder and it took about an hour to do all 8.

Once I started assembling the bottom end, I discovered that I didn't need to clearance the block,,, duh... but it was easy....
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:56 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

its always better to be sure than to regret it later though.... when you do to to a 408 i would reccommend that you get all forged, and im about 100% sure everyone else will too. also go with the H beam rods they are stronger than the I beam.
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:23 PM
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my77stang
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

you only need to go top end parts if your building a motor that requires those kinda parts to hold up. the "normal" stroker crank and I beam rods are more than enough for most streetable builds. forged pistons are a worthy investment though, so theres one area i'd rather pay a little extra for if i was building a stroker.
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:26 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

i know i will have to buy a crank, ect. (i plan on getting a kit from the same place as JMD, he gave a link on another post). but if i understand you guys right i don't even need to take it to a machine shop? should i get I beam rods or H?
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Old 09-19-2007, 06:17 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

ORIGINAL: Mustang.

i know i will have to buy a crank, ect. (i plan on getting a kit from the same place as JMD, he gave a link on another post). but if i understand you guys right i don't even need to take it to a machine shop? should i get I beam rods or H?
You will need to have the bores measured and inspected, and bored out if it needs to be done. Hopefully the block has not been bored out already, chances ae it will need a "clean up" bore of .030 over.

You will also need to have the block deck surface cleaned up, and possibly the crank line honed. All of this is standard stuff and is inexpensive.

H or I? We went with H beams, but they are probably overkill, I beams will work fine, but then again, they are not really that expensive these days...
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:11 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

i don't plan on stroking some old crappy motor. i am going to buy a rebuilt 351w short block (which will be basicly brand new), and i plan on stroking that. how does that sound?
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Old 09-19-2007, 07:28 PM
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my77stang
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

sounds like your paying for a motor twice. the same machine work that would be done to a rebuilt short block would be the same machine work you'd be doing if you started with a used, tired old 351. if you can find a later model roller block that would be best, but the earlier blocks had thicker main webs and a higher nickel content. plus, you need the cylinders bored and honed to YOUR pistons, so if you bought a short block you'd most likely be paying to get the cylinders touch honed again anyways
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Old 09-19-2007, 09:12 PM
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Default RE: 408 windsor question

ORIGINAL: my77stang

sounds like your paying for a motor twice. the same machine work that would be done to a rebuilt short block would be the same machine work you'd be doing if you started with a used, tired old 351. if you can find a later model roller block that would be best, but the earlier blocks had thicker main webs and a higher nickel content. plus, you need the cylinders bored and honed to YOUR pistons, so if you bought a short block you'd most likely be paying to get the cylinders touch honed again anyways
+1,,,

What he said,,,,,
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