n2jmk

I want rack & pinion steering in my 67 coupe, but I'd like to find out is a power rack worth the extra cost over a manual unit? Does anyone have experience with R&P steering in their classic? If so, how is the steering effort when manuevering at slow speeds (parking, and less than 10mph)? Also, I've heard the R&P really improves steering feel and eliminates the wandering that ponies like to do a highway speeds - is this true? I will be running 17" wheels with 235/45-17 tires.

Thanks,
Stefan

JMD

We have manualR&P,,, IMO it is fine, theeffort is not that great even with the big tires.... Of courseit will take more effortto steer the car when parking and such. If you want (most not all) females to enjoy driving the car around town, you might go with power, otherwise manual steering is preferable IMO.

67mustang302

Manual for performance, power for comfot and convienience. Power steering pumps are hydraulic and use a tremendous amount of engine power to operate. If you're concerned about going faster then go with manual, if you want an easy ride and don't care about how fast your car is, power

Rorin67

+1

I currently have the Flaming River manual rack and pinion in my 67. Since it's my daily driver, I now wish I would have gone for a power R&P set-up. Tight parking spots and parking garages are park of my everyday commute, so the convenience factor for me far would outweigh whatever benefit just having manual would have. In any event, I'd stay away from the Flaming River R&P units - don't get me started on that one... [:'(][:@]

fastbackford351

Just curious, why would you stay away from the Flaming River R&P? I too have the Flaming River manual rack in my 67 fastback and have been overall pleased with it. Why don't you like it?

ldollar

My brother and I were talking the other day. I was telling him how I like driving my 68 with manual steering. We were debating whether race cars like NASCAR etc have power or manual steering....
Anybody know what is preferred for these racers? Thanks.

zuluracerx

I have TCP power R/P on my '66. I love it. Great feel and response is immediate (and easy to adjust). I am also running a KRC pump, which is the same setup used by NASCAR. The NASCAR cars are all power.

Rorin67

I see from your sig that you have a C-6. If you have a standard tranny with the OEM clutch linkage, the FR sterring shaft interferes with the linkage in a horrible, horrible way. You'll first need toget another U-joint for the shaft, and then youwould spend countless hours trying to figure out how to mount the additional u-joint and steering shaft, since the u-joints would bind in just about every configuration. This is because in order to clear the clutch linkage, you need to angle the u-joints at such extreme angles. I finally got it, but only after much pain, suffering, and $$$.

I'm in the process of switching to a T-5 with cable clutch, so I'm throwing that darn OEM clutch linkage as far away as I can toss it! Then, I can eliminate the need for that additional u-joint on the steering shaft, and the FR kit will work function much better.

So - long story short - my frustration is not with the quality of the piece, but more with the fit and function of it with an OEMstandard tranny car.

bradleyb

I bought a unisteer rack and pinion and it is hitting my JBA headers. It clears the stock and Hooker long tube (like I could use those with the 1" lower & shelby drop anyhoot)...... ya, this wasn't as easy as I thought it was going to be

fastbackford351

I can relate to your steering shaft situation....to a point. I didn't have to clear the clutch linkage, my big pain in the *** was having to fork over $500+ for the JBA shorty headers.

Now, there advertisement read, "will work with headers". Well brother, I went through 4 or 5 sets of headers trying to find a pair that worked around the R&P steering configuration.

I suppose in hindsight I should have done this first, or when I realized that they wouldn't clear "my" headers, but I called them up and asked them what headers did they design this system around, really really hoping for a Flowtech or Hooker or Hedman solution. When he said JBAs I damn near choked.

Yeah,I am into this project already for 1300.00 and now I gotta throw another $600.00 atthe project. Let me tell you something. That went over like a fart in church with the ol' lady. She hit the friggin' roof. I still bought them, of course, but I was an Ebayin' fool until that little expense was paid for. And to Flaming Rivers credit, they fit like a glove and I absolutely love the sound of my exhaust with the 2 chamber Flowmasters.

Now as far as the performance of the rack, I LOVE IT!! The fastback handles like a slot-car. It'll have you throwing rocks at the old slop box setup.

Also, I must give kudos to their customer service. I had one of the first generation R&P setups. Long story short, manhole sticking about 5.25" above the surface of the road. Cement trucks had pushed the rest of the road down around the manhole cover.

The rack had about 5.15" of clearance &the manhole cover snagged the bolt holding the rack onto the cradle. That cradle folded up / rearward like a pocketknife.

I called Flaming River and within 2 hops I was speaking to the president/owner of the company. He asked me what happened and he was VERY interested in my story. I asked him how much for a replacement rack and he said something like $200 or 300 bucks and that I would receive an invoice with the shipment of the cradle. Cradle comes via UPS and the total amount due is $0.00. I thought that was pretty tight on his part.

BTW, the replacement cradle has about .25"/ .50" more ground clearance than my original one, so apparently mine was not the first such occurance.Not that it affects ground clearance, but I also have the Shelby drop on the fastback.