69stang390

I dont know if this has anything to do with it, but my "condensor" is NOT hooked up to anything. Its just bolted near the battery with two of the wires just hanging and the other one grounded.

What could cause the "dieseling/knocking" when shut off? Im using high grade fuel...could it be something to do with sparkplugs?

67mustang302

You can adjust the accelerator pump with differet squirter sizes(larger delivers fuel more quickly, smaller more slowly) and pump cams, to change how much total fuel the pump delivers and at what throttle position

flyingfool

about the sounds on shut off...not too long ago my 302 was doing somthing similar...id just the key off but hte engine would kinda turn over a few timesand i could feel things were still spining through the clutch pedal aswell as making very nasty sounds. turned out to be my points were fried. I dont know ifyou have points or electric ignition, but thought id share

dodgestang

1. Carb/timing tuning (Prob need new plugs and wires too)
2. I bet you have a high stall converter, you should just get used to it
3. If after carb tuning you still get run when turning the car off, turn while still in drive and then put it in park

69stang390

The torqe converter is just the stock 1600stall andthe plug wires are brand new. Turning it off in drive sounds like it should work...as long as it aint hard on the engine? (i guess it couldnt be much harder than it is...)

jcomp

It is my experience that dieseling can be caused by having the throttle plates too far open when you shut the engine off. Try lowering your idle speed a bit and see if it helps.

I'd bet that the dieseling and hesitation problems will both be fixed with a good carb rebuild and adjustment, and then maybe checking that your timing is correct.

69stang390

My idle speed is around 1100 rpm while in park, and as soon as i put it in gear, it drops to 800. So like dodgestang said, if i shut her off in drive while she is around 800, it shouldnt knock ?

Anyone heard of a shift kit? If it comes to it, ill just replace the tranny. Anyone know the easiest swap for a c6 tranny thats jammed in a 69 coupe with a 390 fatass?

jcomp

Your engine should not diesel, period. Shutting it off while in gear is not going to correct the problem.

Fix the real problem, whatever it is, and you'll be happier in the long run. If you choose to ignore it you will still have to address it sooner or later.

valley firearms

If you don't like the shift kit you can just have the valve body replaced, not the whole transmission. You will save a ton of money. As a matter of fact, you may find another person wanting the shift kit and do the swap for you for nothing. Shift kits are desirable for performance upgrades. It sounds like you should try the modulator first. A shift kit should just deliver a firmer shift.
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69stang390

I plan on getting a dyno tune tommorrow since there closed today. Im debating on taking her in there as is, or getting a smaller carb put on, prolly a 650/670 holley. Only reason id get a smaller carb put on is if this one is too big. Both my brother's buddies say its too big because itcranks for about 5 sec beforeturning on(they say its too long) and because of it hesitating if i punch the peddle instead of "rolling" into it. Dont get me wrong, this baby will just sit theresqualling for a good4-7 secWITHOUT holding the brake and barely a half pedal, but it WILL hesitatefor a split sec and you would think that it died. "chug chug CHUG chugchug", punch the pedle,deadsilence for about half a sec and then you get your neck broken and an earfull of EVIL to listen to.

There i go rambling on again, sorry, i just cant afford to get it dyno'd twice. So i want the first time to "do the trick." I know this carb was JUST put on her(i have the lifetime warrany) soifYOU GUYS think itisnt too much carb, ill just put some carb cleaner in her before getting it dyno'd.