valley firearms

I too would look for the obvious. Light brown cream colored oil on the dip stick and under the breather. If so pull the heads and at least have them checked. I'm almost possitive a machine shop will tell you you should have them re-done while they are off. At least have new seals put on the valve stems.
When I was 18 I bought a cherry 67 coupe from my Dads friend. Got it for $800 because it had a bad head gasket. I replaced the head gasket and it still wouldn't run. I pulled the head again to only discover the lower portion of the cylinder on one side was gone. When the piston was up I didn't see it on the first go round. Rotate your crank and check the cylinder walls when the heads are off.
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DonA

Have you drained the oil since you repaired the problem?

jaisonm

Ok gang.. Got the heads out and took some pics of the passenger side gasket (prior to removal) and the driver side with the gasket off. As you can see, there is a lot of water. Once we had the bolts out and started pulling on the heads, it sounded like someone had turned on a faucet. Tons of water just poured out of the head onto the floor. We got it all sucked up, but took some pics first.

Anyone see anything on these gasket shots? What is that orange crap? I have higher res pics and can post em if needed. I was expecting to see see clear trails on the gaskets, but didn't see any. Same amount of water on both sides. The passenger side gasket also seems warped.. Sort of wavy at the top.

Any other thoughts guys? I see a lot of carbon build up on the valves, so I am definitely going to take the heads to a machine shop. Thanks for all the advice. Just want to do the best thing for the stang!

- Jaison

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/5...erhead1ij5.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/2...gasket1um3.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8...gasket2rg9.jpg

TexasAxMan

I'm surf-controlled at work, so I can't see the pictures, but .....

The orange crap is probably some gasket sealer.

I guess noone told you to drain the block prior to removing the head, huh? You should have the heads magnafluxed to make sure there are no cracks. While you're at it, go ahead and have them do a valve job and put in hardened seats.

JMD

Wow,,, that engine has been together for a while no?

I would get the heads done all the way as well. I think the compression leak might have been at the bottom of the third picture...

jaisonm

Do we still feel like the leak was caused by the head gasket?

Also, how much should I expect to pay to have the heads done completely? Can someone list out exactly what work I should ask them to do? Sorry, I am so new to this.. Your help is a life saver!

- Jaison

jlg2002

Take the heads to the shop and get a quote. They as a rule (a good shop anyways) will always clean them and check for cracks before they do much else. Typically, after cleaning and crack check is good, the valve seats / guides need machined and /or replaced/knurled, deck height cleaned up, new valves are usually a possibility, new valve seals for sure, springs/retainers should be checked and replaced if you're planning ahead for big HP stuff. Multi-angle valve grinds used to be the hot ticket whenI got out of the business several years ago. Not sure what the going price for a valve job is now-a-days. Used to be anywhere from 100 to 500 based on parts and labor involved.

IMO the photos don't exactly show that the issue was caused by the head gasket unless you can see a path between a cylinder and the water passages. The amount of AF in thesecond photo tells me that the block was still full when you pulled the head and what you see is spillover. Better get the heads crack checked. Clean the block off and put some machnist bluing on the deck and look for cracks while you're at it. rotate the engine by hand and look for anything obvious in the cylinders.

jlg2002

You make some good points. I've seen fried rings on several occassions over the years due to overheats. yes it's rare. The real pointI was trying to make was trying to discover whether or not it was possible that a specific or set of cylinders could be isolated or not.