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Overheating not sure?

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Old 10-24-2007, 07:00 AM   #1
krobillard
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Default Overheating not sure?

I know this is a big topic of mustangers, here's the problem. 1965 Mustang coupe.
New Engine- 302 bored.40over, 289 heads / 4 barrel/ headers/ auto trans-rebuilt
New Orginial raditor ( small ), and orginial 4 blade fan .
I'm the guy who had his thermostat backwards, and drove it for about 1 hour.
The Problem -- replaced the thermostat, the temp during idle seemed ok, it never got to hot.
I drove it last night and the temp guage was very close to H, got worried and drove it home.
I have not bought a mechanical tempguage or themroguage for the raditor yet.
Do you think I warp the heads? or is the raditor and fan to samll for the engine?
Is there a way to see if the heads are warped?
Thanks
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Old 10-24-2007, 07:22 AM   #2
dnswwood
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Default RE: Overheating not sure?

First thing I'd do is get a manual temp guage and see what temp exactly you are running. Its hard to tell just how hot you are getting on a C/H type guage.Get one you can read numbers onand see how hot you are really running.
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Old 10-24-2007, 08:33 AM   #3
dozierstang
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Default RE: Overheating not sure?

Check your oil, if it looks like chocolate milk then the heads were warped. I doubt you did that but sounds like you need a biggerradiator. You can splurg and get an all aluminum or just get a larger one say for big blocks. 3 row I think. Then you can go with an electric fan setup or just get a higher flow 5 blade flex fan. If you don't have a high output alt then the electric setup will be expensive along with extra wiring relays etc.
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Old 10-24-2007, 08:42 AM   #4
Starfury
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Default RE: Overheating not sure?

You should definitely have a 3-row radiator, especially with a .040" over block. A clutch fan (not a noisy flex fan) and fan shroud would be good ideas as well. This should be enough to get everything cooled properly.

That said, you still need to get a mechanical gauge to see exactly how hot 'hot' is.
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Old 10-24-2007, 11:13 AM   #5
krobillard
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Default RE: Overheating not sure?

Thanks, the oil still looks brand new ( very clear looking), I did check that.
Next purchases are;
Mechanical temp guage, new flex fan (5-6 blades) and larger raditor.
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Old 07-15-2014, 12:00 AM   #6
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Default 65 Mustang 302 .040 over roller valve train, cam, holly 650 double pumper

It tries to overheat and it has a three core aluminum radiator and an electric fan. Seems like if I jump the fan controls and start the fan when the engine is started it warms-up and stays cool. If I wait until the fan switches on at the appropriate temperature the engine continues to gradually heat-up. It seems as if the fan can prevent higher temps but cannot reduce high temps. The fan switch looks like the temperature sending unit and is activated by water temperature. The fan sensor switch came with the fan from Summit Racing a couple years ago. The car is just now being brought to life so there is no other history with the fan. Does anyone know if there are fan switches as I described but with a lower temperature activation trigger?
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:15 PM   #7
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do yourself a favor and dont get a flex fan.

Look into an electric fan or a clutch fan as suggested to go with a nice Al radiator. cooling systems are important don't cut corners.

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Old 07-16-2014, 07:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bebo View Post
It tries to overheat and it has a three core aluminum radiator and an electric fan. Seems like if I jump the fan controls and start the fan when the engine is started it warms-up and stays cool. If I wait until the fan switches on at the appropriate temperature the engine continues to gradually heat-up. It seems as if the fan can prevent higher temps but cannot reduce high temps. The fan switch looks like the temperature sending unit and is activated by water temperature. The fan sensor switch came with the fan from Summit Racing a couple years ago. The car is just now being brought to life so there is no other history with the fan. Does anyone know if there are fan switches as I described but with a lower temperature activation trigger?

exactly how hot does it run at 50 mph or higher on flat ground?

what is yoiur thermostat rating?

what is your anti freeze ratio?

is your radiator chinese?

does your fan shroud cover the entire radiator?


your fan likely blows too little air and your rad is likely too small.

.
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:09 AM   #9
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Thanks for the response. The car has a 3-core aluminum radiator, the fan covers the entire radiator, the radiator was made in the USA, the coolant is a 60/40 mixture of green antifreeze/water.
We are going to wire the fan direct to come on when the ignition is turned on and we'll call that good for now. The car is in Alaska and will only be driven in the summer so there is no hurry to have the coolant temperature increase to use the heater although it does get warm but just a little slower when the fan starts with engine start.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:42 AM   #10
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Not sure why we're resurrecting a thread from '07, but...

I'm with Barnett here. Sounds like your fan is underpowered, or your cooling system is inadequate. A larger fan (1500+ CFM; Mark VII and Taurus fans are popular junkyard finds) and an adjustable temperature thermostatic fan switch (you should be able to pick up a Hayden unit from any chain parts store) might be good ideas. Or just get a clutch fan and be done with it. My clutch fan keeps my 331 cool in 110F heat.

There is no reason to run a thermostat colder than 180 if your cooling system is up to snuff. I don't even recommend that low. These motors are designed to run at ~210F, and a 192/195 thermostat will do just that. The thermostat should be setting the lower limit on coolant temps, not the upper limit.

If you're running that strong of a coolant mix, some Water Wetter would be a good idea. High coolant mix ratios result in increased surface tension, which results in decreased cooling capacity. Water wetter will help reduce surface tension and improve cooling. It's not a fix in and of itself, but I think it might be a good idea in this case.

I'm not a fan of the cheap 3-row aluminum radiators out there. They're gimmicks. A quality 2-row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes has greater cooling capacity than a cheap 3-row with smaller tubes. That said, I want to know what temperatures you're seeing before changing the radiator.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:24 PM   #11
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hello . the thermostst thing is complicated . in your case it is always open which causes it to run hot however a hotter t stat by itsellf will not fix your prob . . if your radiator is a champion it is chinese the only us aluminum rads are griffen . us radiator . coolcraft . northern . possibly cgi and fllodyne or fluidyne. there are some other custom us rad mfgs liike mattsons but those are big big bucks . if your rad is us made as you say you have additionnal probs like a .060 engine or .040 with a core shift or too little ignition timinnng etc.. if you had too much timing you would hear it unless you have a low compression eng . chnge your coolant to 10 to 15 percent anti freeze for now . it will still protect against freezing to around 25 deg f above 0 . use the water wetter as suggested . also you might buy a soft start fann switch.

Last edited by barnett468; 07-17-2014 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:32 PM   #12
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hello starfury . good to see you . that lincoln is actually claimed to be a real 3400 cfm . it puroortedly takes around 4o amps so im inclined to believe them . the ford contour dual fan is said to be aroound 3000 cfm at around 30 amps . it is around only 160.00 from the dealer including shroud thats ridiculously cheap.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:37 PM   #13
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Yeah, the only problem with the Lincoln fans is that they pull so much juice they burn out standard Bosch relays, which are usually rated at 30A. Taurus fans are about the same. Never heard of a Contour fan being used, but I'm sure anything's possible as long as you can make the shroud fit.

This is part of why I still run a clutch fan KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid)
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:07 PM   #14
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hello . they have fan controllers and relays that can handle the mk 7 fan but they are pricey .. the contour fans actually look and fit like they were made for these cars but they are too wide to use on a 64 thru 67 narrow rad.ill see if i can find a photo of one mounted and post
.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by barnett468; 07-17-2014 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:16 PM   #15
rmodel65
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have the heads been installed recently or it the engine factory?? you can install a headgasket backwards blowing of coolant passages(iirc on the passenger bank) and it will run hot
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:04 PM   #16
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Solved the problem. The cooling system works well now. What we had was a "T" in the manifold with the temp sending unit on one side and the fan sending unit on the other. We broke that down and put the units each in their own boss on the intake and voila, that solved the problem. The fan now comes on earlier during warm-up and easily holds the temp. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
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Old 07-18-2014, 02:04 PM
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