ebluekeys

Got it up, the whole front of the motor removed, the oil pan off, all the journals loosened and backed off about .060. Doesnt look like the crankshaft itself has moved. How do I safely get the crank to drop just a tiny bit so I can ease out the top half of the rear seal??? The transmission is still on. I can see the rear seal - about 3/8 inch is sticking out on one side.

I've tried pounding on the deep side with a 3/16 dowel, but it just won't budge. Would it be easier to try to PULL it out from the side that's sticking out?

Dare I try bumping the starter to get the crank to move downward or do I risk screwing it up since the journals are all a little loose?

Please, someone who's actually DONE THIS give me some advice. I really don't want to remove the exhaust, driveshaft and drop the transmission.

Stuck in Cincinnati[&o]

gothand

According to MustangSteve, you can rotate the crank to help get the seal out.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/msFAQengine.html

cmanf

Same thoughts on that.
BY HAND!
The rods may cause binding in the crank.
I wouldn't bump the starter, And unhook you positive lead on your battery just in case you bump the over by mistake falling wrenches spark pretty on a solenoid!

ebluekeys

Turning the motor over at the same time hammering on a piece of 1/8 music wire sleeved in nylon tube (I'm also an RC airplane modeler and these are standard supplies!)with some bends every 1 inch to simulate the radius of the seal did it. Started out with straight music wire, and as the seal moved deeper out of sight, bent the music wire a little more. after the 1/2 way point, I was able to push it out with my home made tool. I found absolutely nothing visibly wrong with the seal. It had some shine (wear) on the tip of the pointed part of the rubber (installed facing front of engine as specified) and that was all. The ends of the seals I removed were spic and span clean. I guess I didn't put any RTV rubber on the ends during the original install. I DID have to have the engine turned over (by hand with a crowbar on two bolts in the harmonic balancer) to help install the new seal in the upper half. Even with it completely coated in fresh oil, it was tough to get it. Shaved just a skosh of rubber off the back side as it was going in... this time, when I put the seal in the journal, I put some black RTV on the ends of the seal so that when it mated up, it would squish out and make a good seal. Is it possible that just leaving out this one tiny bit of RTV could cause a half ounce of drips at shut down?? If it turns out to NOT be the rear seal (I will be pissed....) what else could it be??? Oil pan gaskets were new then, and will be new again when I put it back together. End rubbers will be new again as well. The leak is definitely engine oil, not transmission fluid. I can see and smell the difference.

It will be a week or two by the time I repaint the oilpan, brackets, timing chain cover and new water pump, so it will be a while before I know if all this effort was worth it. Took almost 6 hours of effort. When all the parts goback on, it will also have a new all aluminum two row radiator and a shroud mounted electric fan. I just hope that damn oil leak is fixed... and I even remembered to torque the journals back to 70 pounds...

And the beat goes on ladidadida....

cmanf

I had a leak on my 289 I couldnt find like that then when I changed the clutch out the bell-housing was nasty as h3ll!
Turns out a intake leak was going down the back side and took my clutch with it! Coated everything in oil.
Just a couple of drips on the driveway now and then but the clutch was drinking it up.
Something to check just run a clean rag around the back of the intake to check.