Bad news...
#1
Bad news...
So come to find out I will not be able to work these heads how I want (mill them down to 62ish cc's because it would mess up the valve geometry and I would have to buy and rework allot of stuff to do it) and I have to get stronger springs in order to run the cam I have... So depending on which is cheaper I will either buy a different cam or get a spring and retainer kit. I am also looking in to a possible set of E7 heads locally so even if it is slightly more expensive I will have better flowing heads and not have to put as much money in to the setup...
Ideas would be GREAT right now
Just remember I am on a budget, no AFR's or anything over a couple hundred bucks for me
Thanks a bunch and God Bless,
Brian
Ideas would be GREAT right now
Just remember I am on a budget, no AFR's or anything over a couple hundred bucks for me
Thanks a bunch and God Bless,
Brian
#3
RE: Bad news...
https://mustangforums.com/m_4142379/tm.htm
That will give you more insight as to whats going on, but its an 84 302 to answer your question.
That will give you more insight as to whats going on, but its an 84 302 to answer your question.
#5
RE: Bad news...
Here is what a guy locally said...
[/align]
"$20 for the pair. Completely virgin heads, pulled off a running car. Still has original crud accumulation
The springs are a tad bit old (130,000 miles), but the valves themselves look to be in good shape(from what I can see, and they're still mounted). Probably need new valve stem seals too. 7/16ths head bolt holes, pedestal mount rockers.
A good cleaning, springs, valve lapping, and seals should do it to make them operational."
Unless there is a HUGE crack in the heads I am going to buy them... for 20 bucks thats well worth it, even if they need a little work.
[/align]
"$20 for the pair. Completely virgin heads, pulled off a running car. Still has original crud accumulation
The springs are a tad bit old (130,000 miles), but the valves themselves look to be in good shape(from what I can see, and they're still mounted). Probably need new valve stem seals too. 7/16ths head bolt holes, pedestal mount rockers.
A good cleaning, springs, valve lapping, and seals should do it to make them operational."
Unless there is a HUGE crack in the heads I am going to buy them... for 20 bucks thats well worth it, even if they need a little work.
#9
RE: Bad news...
Yeah I know that the E7 heads and almost every (except for the GT40) stock cast iron Ford heads are poor flowing heads.
However the fact that the heads I have are 70cc and the E7 heads are 62cc will make some difference as is, and if I mill down (about $70) the E7 heads (which I just got back from getting them) to 60cc I will have a decent comp with the cam that I will be getting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku) and I already knew that I will need springs and retainers for the cam (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku) so now the only question is do I risk not doing a valve job on these heads (130k miles) or do I just suck it up and spend another 130+ for a valve job?
However the fact that the heads I have are 70cc and the E7 heads are 62cc will make some difference as is, and if I mill down (about $70) the E7 heads (which I just got back from getting them) to 60cc I will have a decent comp with the cam that I will be getting (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku) and I already knew that I will need springs and retainers for the cam (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...p;autoview=sku) so now the only question is do I risk not doing a valve job on these heads (130k miles) or do I just suck it up and spend another 130+ for a valve job?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
KingRando
2005-2014 Mustangs
5
10-02-2015 08:06 AM