65Vert

Apparently I have a petronix kit for a dizzy here. it's an ignitor. Then I realised that I need an ignition coil since the stock one for points wouldnt handle it. What would you recommend. THis is for an ignitor and not an ignitor II.

dozierstang

I highly recommend the pertronix flame thrower coil to go with that.

F14chuck

Not sure what a Dizzy is, but I've had the Petronixon my stock 302 distributor for 18 yrs. Had an old Flamethrower coil for a while but it seemed to fry my plug wires in too short a time. Used a yellow top coil for a while until it died. Been using a generic coil from the local parts shop without a problem for quite some time.

65Vert

am now checking them and it seems that there is one with 1.5 ohms primary resistance and another with 3.0 ohms. one that throws 40k volts vs 45k volts too. am really bad with electrics. which will do better?

dozierstang

I have used the 40K volt model for years now with my pertronix. No problems what so ever. I have the original pertonix like you not the pertronix II model. Remember, with these oil filled coils, they need to be mounted vertically. Now the epoxy filled ones can be mounted any way you want.

Starfury

I suspect you haven't done the ignition resistor bypass yet. Without that, any aftermarket coil is going to be nearly useless. Factory replacement coils are designed to run off 6-8V supplied through the factory ignition wiring, whereas aftermarket high-voltage coils are designed to run off 12-14V.

The Pertronix Ignitor unit allows you to run 12V through the ignition system, but it's not required for correct operation. The Ignitor II does require a full 12V for proper operation. If you do run 12V through the ignition, you need an aftermarket coil designed to run at that voltage.

If you've got the standard Ignitor unit and haven't bypassed the ignition resistor wire, you'll be fine with the stock coil. Otherwise, pick up any 40-45kV coil that runs on 12V.

TexasAxMan

How do you bypass the resistor wire?

Starfury

There's a thick pink wire coming out of the back of the ignition switch. The easiest way to do this is to cut it close to the switch and crimp on some 12ga wire and run that straight to the coil + terminal. The 'best' way to do it is to find another 90* female spade connector and crimp that directly to the new wire and the other wire sharing that terminal. I was too lazy to find a new connector, so the crimp method worked fine for me

dozierstang

I tell you what axman, your avatar is like looking at a fire at night....mesmerizing. (Love It!)

Anyway, to bypass the resistor, a 12v ingition wire needs to feed the + of the coil. The tach goes to the - side. Just thinking out loud. I have a Ron francis wiring kit and it has a feed wire going to the coil from the fuse panel. This may also be achieved by running a wire (I think its pink stock color) to the coil. Someone please correct me if I am wrong as my wiring is totally different and I don't want to fry axman's wiring. However, before I put the RF wiring in, my coil was not even hooked up to a power, just two wires running from the ignitor module. This may be what starfury was talking about.

Ahhh, you beat me to it Starfury.

TexasAxMan

Thanks guys. I don't know if you remember from yesterday, but I already fried my wiring.

I probably jumped the gun on asking, since I'm now going to put in a new wiring harness for the instruments. I'm certain I'll forget what y'all said by the time I get to it, so don't jump my $hit when I ask again, alright?

Glad you enjoy the avatar, I've seen several others on this forum that are equally impressive.