engine build
#11
RE: engine build
They prolly dyno it without accessories, run the ol electric dyno water pump and power the ignition from another source. Not having to turn accessories can make quite a bit of difference. I'm sure all those companies have their little tricks to get the paper power output.
#12
RE: engine build
67mustang302...very good info thank you...if i run 165's with the same cam will that give me better low end or is the cam too much?
mjr46...did you run that in your classic? what year, motor etc.?
mjr46...did you run that in your classic? what year, motor etc.?
#14
RE: engine build
ORIGINAL: eZ
67mustang302...very good info thank you...if i run 165's with the same cam will that give me better low end or is the cam too much?
67mustang302...very good info thank you...if i run 165's with the same cam will that give me better low end or is the cam too much?
A set of 165 heads and a milder cam would be a much better combo for a street driven 302.
#16
RE: engine build
ORIGINAL: eZ
67mustang302...very good info thank you...if i run 165's with the same cam will that give me better low end or is the cam too much?
mjr46...did you run that in your classic? what year, motor etc.?
67mustang302...very good info thank you...if i run 165's with the same cam will that give me better low end or is the cam too much?
mjr46...did you run that in your classic? what year, motor etc.?
#17
RE: engine build
I'm running the 165's with a mild Crane cam and it runs really well, it'll leave a stop light like no one's business, and it only has a 3.00 gear with a long 1st. If I had more gear and a 5spd I prolly woulda gone with at least a bigger cam and intake, maybe larger heads, but mileage would have been wrose in the city at the very least. You don't need a big cam or big heads to make good power, just a good cam and good heads with a well setup combination. I'd prefer to build a smaller headed car with a decent cam/intake etc that makes good power, then make up the rest of it at the track with juice, but have something that drives well and gets good mileage. You can build a 302 with the larger heads and cam, but you'd need more gear for it to drive aswell, and spend all the extra on the supporting stuff, plus end up spending more on gas. It comes down to what you want to spend, what you want to get and what you're willing to tolerate.
Here's something to consider though, Edelbrock has some new heads out now(new enough that you can find nothing about it on their site, except flow data for the 351W head version only). Called the Pro Port CNC, they're basically a next generation version of the Performer RPM series heads. The 289/302 version only has a 170cc port, but I'm sure flows like mad, I looked at the data for the 190cc port version, that they target at the 351W, and it outflowed even the Victor Jr heads they have that come with 220cc ports, and outflows the AFR 185's by a pretty fair margin, yet has a port roughly the same size. So I'd imagine that the Pro Port 170's flow almost as well give or take as the AFR 185's, but with a smaller port for better velocity and drivability. And it's not an exotic head design, so I imagine the price is on par with the AFR's, Darts etc. I'd look into that head if I were you, it's prolly gonna be the best bang for the buck head out there for a SBF, at least until someone designs something better with a reasonable price. Technology marches forward and all that.
Here's something to consider though, Edelbrock has some new heads out now(new enough that you can find nothing about it on their site, except flow data for the 351W head version only). Called the Pro Port CNC, they're basically a next generation version of the Performer RPM series heads. The 289/302 version only has a 170cc port, but I'm sure flows like mad, I looked at the data for the 190cc port version, that they target at the 351W, and it outflowed even the Victor Jr heads they have that come with 220cc ports, and outflows the AFR 185's by a pretty fair margin, yet has a port roughly the same size. So I'd imagine that the Pro Port 170's flow almost as well give or take as the AFR 185's, but with a smaller port for better velocity and drivability. And it's not an exotic head design, so I imagine the price is on par with the AFR's, Darts etc. I'd look into that head if I were you, it's prolly gonna be the best bang for the buck head out there for a SBF, at least until someone designs something better with a reasonable price. Technology marches forward and all that.
#18
RE: engine build
ill look into that. want to do this soon because im pulling out the motor for the body and paint. thought it would be a good time to touch up the motor while the car is off to the paint shop. do they have the new heads for sale yet?