musnicki

I have a 4 speed and it grinds when shifting into reverse. It shifts nice until the motor gets to operating temp after driving around then it’s hard as hell to shift into first and second, near impossible. Also, if I start the car in gear with the clutch pushed to the floor the car will move when the starter turns the motor. Once the car is warmed up if I have the clutch floored and I press on the gas, the car moves a little. I adjusted the clutch Equalizer bar lower rod so that the gear doesn’t engage until the clutch is almost fully returned yet it won’t change gears unless I floor it. Also of note, I removed the clutch return spring (I thought that spring assisted in pressing the clutch, I run a lot so I can take the extra pain from clutching) because the clutch was not returning. While the car is in neutral, the pedal returns and is flush with the brake and gas pedals, but while driving the clutch pedal fails to return fully, it stays about 1 inch from the return position (understand that?).

I posted a picture of what I am going to play with tomorrow. I’m looking at cheapest to expensive fixes first. I thinking (hoping) that it’s a simple clutch adjustment and that my clutch isn’t going (it doesn’t squeal, pop out of gear, or engine rev at higher rpm in a high gear, not yet anyways). I am going to look at the Equalizer bar where it mounts underneath the steering column. I think that the bolt under there maybe loose or broken but I can’t see or get to it. When I have a friend press in the clutch I don’t see any significant movement with the Lower Rod which should be disengaging the clutch.

Now my question: How do I remove that part of the steering column with out breaking any seals? I have a steering wheel puller and a 12 pack of beer for tomorrow…..

Also, given my signs and symptoms, what do the experts say? Is my clutch blown or do you think it might be this equalizer bar mount under the steering column?

As always….thank you for your wisdom and time.

James




Oh the picture.

Starfury

Well, the under-dash spring is an over-center assist spring. The way the linkage is designed, it's a return spring for the first inch or so of travel, and an assist spring for the remainder. If you have an OE style clutch, it needs to stay in. If it's a newer diaphragm clutch, leave it out.

I think you're doing the right thing by looking at the linkage first. Make sure there's no lateral slop in the z-bar. If there is, it needs new bushings. And yeah, look under the dash to make sure everything's nice and snug. You'd probably notice a problem with the under-dash setup right away, though, so I suspect problems farther down the line.

As far as adjusting the linkage, the factory shop manual has specs for doing it....but I usually just adjust it until I have an inch or so of free play at the top of the pedal.

There is definitely something wrong with the clutch though; it's not disengaging properly, hence the grinding and jumping while starting. You may have even chewed up some syncros...but hopefully not. Have to find out once you've fixed the clutch.

musnicki

The bushings! I think that could be it, the bar has some play in it but the bolt holding it to the frame side doesn't appear broken so maybe its the plastic bushing (socket) that wore out (or just disintegrated). I will check it out today. Hurray for me in getting to pull the steering column out of the way.

Also, check out my Ron Morris post, thanks again for posting that link on the engine mounts last weekend. I owe you a beer if you ever come to Fayetteville (FT Bragg) North Carolina!

James

Starfury

I didn't post about the Ron Morris mounts:P Just let you know that OE style 67 mounts are impossible to find. Good to hear you got it working though

But yeah, definitely take a look at the z-bar mounts. There are bushings and a felt washer (I think) that are supposed to be there to take the lateral slop out of the bar. Most Mustang wherehouses should sell these parts, and they're ultra cheap, so I'd start there.

Gary H

If you're running a heavier than stock clutch, make sure the rod to the fork isnt flexing. Hopefully the pressure plate hasnt warped some, so that it never fully disengages.

Why are you taking the steering column out?

musnicki

I can't get to the equalizer bar mount on the frame side. I can feel/see the mount on the engine side but as you can see from the picture the frame side of the bar mounts on top of the frame which on top of that, about 3/4" lies the column. The bar does flex because I think that the bushings might be worn out on the frame side mount. I was kinda lazy today and just installed new drivers and passenger side mirrors then it started raining and then I have a hot neighbor that was asking me to carry some stuff up to her 3rd floor apt. It drives awesome cold, I took it out of the garage today and parked it infront of my apt (partly so I could check out this lady when she returned from church) so I'm hoping that the clutch isn't damaged. The transmission is out of a 81 F-150 and it's an 11" clutch. I have been pricing them all weekend and the bushing is about $10 tops for the clips, bushing and another mount....thing is just getting there. I removed the clutch lower bar so that I can press on the clutch pedal with out putting pressure on the clutch. The bar doesn't flex but when it's all attatched and someone presses the clutch pedal for me I notice that it barely moves the clutch flange at the transmission so that leads me to believe that there maybe a bushing that wore out and that my clutch is still ok...I hope. I'm a single guy so to me christmas is just another day off which I could be spending taking my transmission apart changing a clutch.

1967inline6MUSTANG

the frame side has 2 bolts in the top side that will need to come out ..then the "bar" will slide off the motor side..get a rebuild kit and grease the hell out of the "studs" and forget about it for about 35 years..

The stang II

Is it making a lot of noise? Like a loud squeeling noise? If so could be a through out bearing.