67mustang302

So, my bushings were worn and the clutch/brake pedals had some play so I bought the roller bearing replacement kit. Spent most of the day working on it, and basically got it all back together, except the pedals aren't hooked back up to the m/c pushrods for the clutch and brakes, and I have to put a wire back in that I pulled out. I ran out of daylight. I'd have to say, the hardest part was prolly trying to get the old clutch pedal shaft off the clutch pedal, it was freakin IN there. Luckily the holes in the pedal bracket weren't torn up, so no welding was required to locate the bearings.

In retrospect, it would have been easier if I had pulled the entire steering column out, rather than just dropping it down. I screwed up my already screwed up back working under the dash too, so yay for that. At least in the end I won't have to worry about replacing the shaft/bearings any time soon, and my leg will appreciate it in traffic. For anyone contemplating this, my advice is to just pull the whole freakin column, and make sure the clutch pedal is put in the bearings BEFORE you bolt the bracket back up, it makes it easier to work under the dash. Though, if you pull the whole column, you can install both pedals before you put the bracket back in place.

Anyone else done this?

gothand

I don't know which kit you got, but I used the Mustang Steve roller bearing conversion. You have to pull the pedal support out and weld some retainers to the pedal. It was a pretty easy install, maybe an hour or so.

Jeff

67mustang302

I got the one from Mustangs Plus, by Scott Drake. The bearings went in in like 5 minutes, they're held in place with a snap ring and a heavy duty washer and a spring washer, no welding needed unless the pedal support holes have been wallowed out from excessive wear. Most of the time wasted was replacing the chewed up clutch pedal shaft, it took forever to get the old one out without destroying the clutch pedal. All these little projects, I end up burning large amounts of time trying to disconnect crap that's been frozen in place for 40 years.

valley firearms

What? No pics of your project?
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musnicki

I just replaced the Z bar, bushings and push rod on mine in December. It was a pain getting to the mount on the steering column side but I used a long *** ratchet with two of those elbow rotating extentions and lots of swear words. My original Z rod was so bent that it was rubbing up on the steering column and wasn't letting the clutch pedal return back to it's original position. I started cheap rather than replacing the whole clutch, it paid off...turns out my clutch was fine, my linkage wasn't producing enough tourque to dis-engage the clutch and fly wheel.

I packed the plastic bushings full of grease and put it all back together. I hate that clutch linkage, I keep thinking that while I'm mashing through gears (every drive to me is like my get-away-bank-robbery-drive) that something down there is going to break, I'm not an expert but I don't think that it's a good set up for a high performance car.

Tims65

While you are at it, why not rollerize your entire clutch linkage?

I replaced all of the bushings with hemispherical bearing rod ends and beefed up the push rod bar. I, also, needed to brace my Z-bar because it flexed. Makes the clutch action smooth, removes all of the slop in the system and provides great feedback.



OpenTracker, also, sells a complete kit or just he parts you want.

Tim

musnicki

um....wow...I'm speechless. $400 for the kit? I'm looking at it right now. I've been thinking about doing the hydrolic conversion and if I don't then I will purchase this kit.

Thank you.

Tims65

If you don't want to spring for the kit, here islink to a great how-to thread. It even includes a parts list. - http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/sh...rch/1/#1540512

Tim

67mustang302

I'm running full hydraulic clutch linkage on mine, so no z-bar etc. The hydraulic works WAY better than the z-bar in terms of effort, and there's nothing to bend in the linkage, plus I can run the hydraulic line someplace out of the way. I was getting MAJORLY tired of trying to adjust the z-bar linkage with headers, and having it slowly bend over time.

And +1 on converting to rollerized bearings and spherical rod ends. I'm running a spherical rod end on my clutch m/c, cuts down on effort and wear.

zmetalmilitia

I just installed the clutch roller bearing and pin setup today. I did take out the bracket from under the dash. Went together easily. The hardest part was cutting out the wedged in metal bushings on the bracket. I plan on using a hydraulic clutch in the future. I got my roller bearing kit from NPD.