Long Term Storage?
#1
Long Term Storage?
I am deploying in a month or so and the car will sit for 12-15 months. I have a few questions. I am going to store the mustang in a self storage place. I plan on putting the car on jackstands, 3 sets. One under the rear axle, one behind the front tires on the framerail, and another set in the front of the tires underfrontframerail. I also plandraining all the fluids from it so that they do not leak out of the car (a buddy is storing his 06 GT in the same storage shed) and adding some fuel stabilizer. I am also going to get a good car cover and a battery tender.
Can anyone think of anything else I should do? Should the tank be full or empty? Thanks much!
Can anyone think of anything else I should do? Should the tank be full or empty? Thanks much!
#2
RE: Long Term Storage?
The few times I'vestored a car(not for that long) I filled the gas tank to prevent internal rust and I put some carpet sample squares on the floors and sprinkled them generously with baking soda to absorb odor and moisture. I did have someone who could change out the baking soda everycouple months. I did not use a car cover out of fear it could hold moisture if there was condensation under it. I assume by deployment you are talking military. Good luck, and if nobody else says it, I will...THANK YOU FOR SERVING!
#3
RE: Long Term Storage?
I would fill the tank. I tried once with it empty, and it got pin holes. I stored mine for a few years and all the rubber was ruined. I was told that it is good to spray the rubber (WD-40 possibly), but I do not remember. Maybe someone can help with that.
Good luck out there, stay safe.
This was from ZZmustang back in 1/2007:
Pull the carb off, put it in a small cooler full of gas and seal the cooler. put a carb plate on the hole. Pull valve covers off and loosen valves that are down (open) or part down. set valve covers back where they go. Put about 20 gt of oil in engine, Can be use oil or crap oil. Pull plugs and squirt a little wd 40 in each hole and replace plug. If radiator has any water in it drain radiator and fill complete system with antifreeze only.
When you go to start engine, drain oil, put new oil in and new filter, reset valves where they were, remove carb plate and drain carb of gas,( the gas is no good , don't leave it in carb) replace carb on engine,(I would use some carb cleaner here on the carb just to get any varnish from gas sitting off). Put valve covers on, Start engine, It will smoke a little because of theWD 40 but it should go right away, engine should be as you left it.
Done this many times.
Good luck out there, stay safe.
This was from ZZmustang back in 1/2007:
Pull the carb off, put it in a small cooler full of gas and seal the cooler. put a carb plate on the hole. Pull valve covers off and loosen valves that are down (open) or part down. set valve covers back where they go. Put about 20 gt of oil in engine, Can be use oil or crap oil. Pull plugs and squirt a little wd 40 in each hole and replace plug. If radiator has any water in it drain radiator and fill complete system with antifreeze only.
When you go to start engine, drain oil, put new oil in and new filter, reset valves where they were, remove carb plate and drain carb of gas,( the gas is no good , don't leave it in carb) replace carb on engine,(I would use some carb cleaner here on the carb just to get any varnish from gas sitting off). Put valve covers on, Start engine, It will smoke a little because of theWD 40 but it should go right away, engine should be as you left it.
Done this many times.
#6
RE: Long Term Storage?
I'd be hesitant to stick a trickle charger on the battery if it's going to be there that long, instead I think it's be alot safer to just take the battery out of the car and let it sit, then charge it when you get back or buy a new one altogether. Just seems there's too much risk since it's going to be untended for so long.
#8
RE: Long Term Storage?
On the battery, remove it, this prevents an ignition sorce. I like to place poly plastic under the car as normally the floor is concrete and this will prevent mosture from rising and rusting the underside. I use Irish Spring soap in the floorboards (just open the boxs) to deter rodents. Also place some bait blocks (Tomcats or other types) around the car in areas that mice may like to inhabit. Fill the gas tank and add Stabil and run to get into the carb (Racing fuel works also as it takes it about 2 years to degrade). Jack stands are good to prevent flat spots. Leave the windows cracked a couple of inchs for air circulation and to prevent mold. Wax and cover with a cotton cover (don't leave wax on). Apply somethng like Armor All to the vinal. If you can keep the humidity level between 40 and 60%, this will prevent corrosion, less than 40% and dryrot will occur. You may switch the oil to synthetic as it has much better adheision qualitys. Fill and check the fluids (don't overfill the oil). You may want to change the brake fluid as DOT 3 and 4's (glycol) will absorbe water leading to corrosion in the braking system. Also change the antifreeze (just buy the premixed stuff ethylene glycol based) as it wears out also. Cover all chrome parts with WD-40, this will leave a protective barrier and the chrome will look hazy but it will wipe off later. Bag the carb and exhaust (this is where silica packs will help if you insert them into the tail pipe and seal it with a bag) to seal the system. Hope this helps.
#9
RE: Long Term Storage?
#10
RE: Long Term Storage?
Thanks for all the help. One question though. Alot of you said to top off the fluids. When I replaced the suspension, the car sat on stands for a little over a month. 2 days before I finished, the tranny started to leak about 4 drops a second. I am worried that if I leave the fluids in the car that will happen again. Should I worry about it or am I just being overly cautious? Also, I plan on leaving the battery at home in my garage, so the Mrs. will be able to occasionally take it off the battery tender.