Electric Fan CFM
#22
RE: Electric Fan CFM
You can hear the fan even over a fairly agressive engine. It doesn't bother me, and I kinda like the satisfaction that I know that it is running.
For the question/comment about the shroud... Mine hasn't seemed to need one, because there is really good coverage for a 16" fan on a standard 65/66 size radiator. I am sure it would help some, but my fan cools so good I haven't needed it (but that is w/ an aluminum radiator, fresh aluminum high flow Edelbrock water pump). I have seen a really nice one that is polished aluminum on eBay for 65/66's that I would buy (looks sweet w/ an aluminum radiator) but I just haven't had the need for it. For me it would be simply cosmetic, but I am sure there are others that may want/need every last bit of cooling power. I have mine with an adjustable thermostatic switch, so I can adjust mine to whatever temp I want and it pretty much keeps it there.
The one thing I forgot to mention about the SPAL is it has a high initial amp draw (I think like 35 amp). The constant amp draw is something like 15 - 20 amp I believe. One time I took my car out to a Saturday night parking lot meet that was a good drive away. With my stock alternator and the lights running for a 30-40 minute drive back the lights went out every time the fan kicked on for about 2 to 3 seconds. It freaked me out, but luckily I was basically home when it started. I threw a PowerMaster 1-wire 100amp alternator on and I have never had a problem withpower since.
For the question/comment about the shroud... Mine hasn't seemed to need one, because there is really good coverage for a 16" fan on a standard 65/66 size radiator. I am sure it would help some, but my fan cools so good I haven't needed it (but that is w/ an aluminum radiator, fresh aluminum high flow Edelbrock water pump). I have seen a really nice one that is polished aluminum on eBay for 65/66's that I would buy (looks sweet w/ an aluminum radiator) but I just haven't had the need for it. For me it would be simply cosmetic, but I am sure there are others that may want/need every last bit of cooling power. I have mine with an adjustable thermostatic switch, so I can adjust mine to whatever temp I want and it pretty much keeps it there.
The one thing I forgot to mention about the SPAL is it has a high initial amp draw (I think like 35 amp). The constant amp draw is something like 15 - 20 amp I believe. One time I took my car out to a Saturday night parking lot meet that was a good drive away. With my stock alternator and the lights running for a 30-40 minute drive back the lights went out every time the fan kicked on for about 2 to 3 seconds. It freaked me out, but luckily I was basically home when it started. I threw a PowerMaster 1-wire 100amp alternator on and I have never had a problem withpower since.
#23
RE: Electric Fan CFM
Also, the Lincoln Mark 7's had a great two speed fan/shroud that are quite popular for use in early cars. Like Evil said, use some relays and heavy duty cable when wiring up. Also, make sure that you update to a larger alternator as most fans pull some serious amps.
#24
RE: Electric Fan CFM
Zirgo over rates the cfmof their fans.Derale and Spal are pretty close to their stated cfm. I put a w-i-d-e Summit(Northern) radiator and Taurus junkyard fan($35).You need at least a 100 amp alternator and 40+ amp relay.The fan on initial start up pulls about 60 amps on high.I wired mine to the high speed setting only.The supposdly blows about 3000+ cfm.I set beack the radiator about 2 inches for clearance
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